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Ants fall into the
biological order Hymenoptera, which includes
wasps, hornets and bees. There are more than
10,000 species of ants known and there is
evidence that these colonizing creatures have
been around for more than 100 million years.
Many species have the ability to sting when
alarmed or attacking while others, like the tiny
pharoh ant, are stingless. It is believed that
some ants use their sense of smell for a number
of important functions. Some species are
actually able to distinguish one colony from
another through olfactory nerves. Ants are known
to release pheromones which effectively use the
sense of smell to signal alarm, lay trails and
attract co-workers to new food
sources.
Ant
colonies can contain up to 20 million
individuals. Females do most of the work,
including queen castes for reproduction and
worker castes to gather food. The winged males
appear on the scene often only to fertilize the
queens. Ants usually live in nests of soil or
wood, but can create huge nests made up of ants
themselves interconnected in a large cylinder.
The life cycle of the ant includes the egg,
larvae and adult.
Ants are the number
one pest problem for homes in most areas of the
United States, particularly in the southern and
western sections of the country. While there are
more than 10,000 different ant species, only a
small fraction of these generally trouble us as
household pests.
Need to know how to get rid of ant in the
home or business? Pest all Online offers you
effective ways to get rid of ant.
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ARGENTINE ANT Linepithema humile
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Color: Dark brown to black; shiny
Legs:
Six
Shape: Segmented; oval
Size: 1/16-1/4"
Antennae: Yes
Flight: No
Argentine ant colonies can grow to
monumental size. Their colony borders sometimes cover entire habitats.
Argentine ant queens also assist with foraging for food. The ant gives off a
musty odor when crushed. Worker argentine ants are about one sixteenth of an
inch long. Queen argentine ants are one eighth of an inch to one quarter of an
inch long.
Habits
Argentine ants deposit trails continuously, instead of just from nest to
food source. This habit ensures they do not waste time visiting the same area
for food. They prefer to eat sweets but they will eat almost anything including
meats, eggs, oils and fats.
Habitat
Argentine ant colonies are located in wet environments near a food
source.
Threats
Argentine ants do not pose a health threat, but they can contaminate
food.
Prevention
Eliminate standing water. Pests, such as Argentine ants are attracted to
moisture. Keep tree branches and other plants cut back from the house.
Sometimes pests use these branches to get into your home. Make sure that there
are no cracks or little openings around the bottom of your house. Sometimes
pests use these to get into your home. Make sure that firewood and building
materials are not stored next to your home. Pests like to build nests in stacks
of wood.
ARGENTINE ANT & SMALL ANT CONTROL
Sometimes just a cheap spray picked up at the grocery store is all you need to
remove these small pesky ants from your house. But you would probably not be
reading this article if this had worked for you.
How to use Maxforce
Ant Bait to control ants invading your home and business.
FOR ANT CONTROL USING BAIT FOLLOW
THESE GUIDELINES.
ARGENTINE ANT CONTROL
1. Bait Inside...The use of ant bait inside
cupboards, closets, window sills, attics, crawl spaces and any other foraging
places is necessary to control nests inside your home. Maxforce
Granular Ant Bait is the best bait for this purpose. The worker ants
distribute it throughout the colony. Control takes 7-14 days. Maxforce granular
bait is a very finely ground bait about the size of pepper. It is very safe
towards non-target organisms such as pets and birds but works on all species of
small ants including the pharaoh, sugar, grease and fire ant. One container
covers 1/3 of an acre so for best results distribute this bait throughout the
house, attic, crawlspace and outside along the foundation.
Maxforce also comes in Maxforce
Ant Bait Stations for really neat people. We also sell Gourmet Ant Bait for
the times that the ants prefer a sweet bait.
2. Bait Outside...If you just bait inside
then you are inviting all the ants in the neighborhood to enter your house and
have a snack. This is a losing battle. Bait outside around the foundation and
on the window sills. Maxforce Granular works well for an outside ant bait. One
10 oz. container covers 1/3 of an acre, so use the entire container for best
results. Maxforce also works on fire ants.
3. Spray
Outside...One week after the outside baiting usea good residual spray
containing Talstar
One to spray all the entry points into the house such as windows,
doors, fireplaces, plumbing, etc. This prevents the ants from re-establishing
their scent trails and re-colonizing your house. This spray will also prevent
roaches, spiders and crickets from entering your home. Repeat this perimeter
spray once a month. Failure to repeat this step will allow ants to re-enter
your home, many times in as little as 4-6 weeks!!!
For small ant control using a combination of baits, sprays and dusts, follow
these guidelines.
Sometimes there are just too many ants for a baiting program to handle quickly.
This happens in late summer and early fall, especially with argentine ants.
SMALL ANTCONTROL
1. Bait
Inside...Use 1/2 of a 10 ounce container of Maxforce
granular bait and all of the Drax inside. Put bait under appliances and
sinks. Delta Dust may also be used inside the electrical boxes. Do NOT spray
inside for 7 days.Gourmet Ant
Bait Gel: This a new bait on the market. It comes with 4 bait stations,
attracts both sweet and protein feeding ants. Very economical.
2. Spray Outside...Spray 4-8 gallons of a Talstar
One solution outside only. Quantities must be used to insure proper
penetration through the mulch and leaf litter. In addition spray all the entry points
going to the inside of the house, such as windows, doors, plumbing, fireplaces,
etc.
3. Spray Inside...After letting the bait
stay undisturbed for one week (giving the workers plenty of time to pick it up
and take it back to the nest) , then you can spray about one gallon of a
cypermethrin solution inside and outside. Talstar
One comes in many different sizes. See below or follow the links for a
complete description of the most popular ones.
Gourmet Ant Bait Gel
Maxforce Granular
Maxforce Bait Stations
Phantom
Demon
WP
Cynoff EC
Delta Dust
Chapin one gallon insecticide sprayer
Best Buy! Ant
bait kit For the smaller ants. A complete ant kit to fit all the dietary
needs, for inside and outside.
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CARPENTER ANT Camponotus species

Color: Varies
depending on species, from red to black or a combination. The two most common
species are black.
Legs: Six
Shape: Segmented; oval
Size: 5/8"
Antennae: Yes
Flight: No
Carpenter ants get
their name because they excavate wood in order to build their nests. Their
excavation results in smooth tunnels inside the wood. Carpenter ants range in
size from one-quarter inch for a worker ant to up to three-quarters inch for a
queen.
Habits
All species mainly attack wood that is or has been wet and damaged by mold.
Even though these ants first invade wet, decayed wood, they may soon begin
building paths through dry, undamaged wood. They usually come into buildings
through cracks around doors, windows, or through holes for wires. They will
also crawl along overhead wires, shrubs, or tree limbs that touch the building
far above the ground.
Habitat
Carpenter ants build their nests outdoors in various wood sources,
including tree stumps, firewood or landscaping. They need a constant water
source to survive. They will enter homes through wet, damaged wood.
Threats
Carpenter ants damage wood through their nest building. If they gain entry to a
structure, they pose a property threat.
Prevention
Because carpenter ants require a water source, eliminate sources of
moisture or standing water. Keep tree branches and other plants cut back from
the house. Sometimes pests use these branches to get into your home. Make sure
that there are no cracks or little openings around the bottom of your house.
Sometimes pests use these to get into your home. Make sure that firewood and
building materials are not stored next to your home. Pests like to build nests
in stacks of wood.
For immediate destruction of the Carpenter
Ant colony, find and treat directly inside the carpenter ant nest. A good dust
such as Drione works better than a liquid spray. A bellows duster such as
the Crusader Duster is a valuable dust application
tool.
If you cannot find the nest, then use Advance
Carpenter Ant Bait. This is an effective granular bait especially formulated for
carpenter ant control. It is both safe and easy to use. One pound is rated to
cover one acre, and it can be used inside and outside the home. For faster
control consider using Maxforce Carpenter Ant gel bait. This has a natural "honeydew
attractant" that Carpenter Ants find irresistible. Using either one or
both baits may not destroy the colony completely, but simply cripple it. For
complete and immediate death of the entire carpenter ant colony, repair the
water leak and treat the Carpenter Ant gallery with Drione dust.
Once activity has ceased spray the entry points outside of your home with a
good residual insecticide such as Talstar One
Best Buy! Carpenter
ant bait kit
For
the Carpenter ants. A complete ant kit to fit all the dietary needs, for
inside and outside.
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odorous
ants
Color: Brown or
black
Legs: Six
Shape: Segmented; oval
Size: 1/16-1/8"
Antennae: Yes
Flight: No
This ant gets its name from the strong, rotten coconut-like smell it gives off
when crushed. These tiny insects range in size from one-sixteenth of an inch to
one-eighth of an inch long.
Habits
Odorous house ants like to eat sweets, especially melon.
Habitat
Typically living for several years, these ants make their homes in exposed soil
and wall cracks.
Threats
These ants do not pose a public health risk, but they can contaminate food
and should be avoided.
Prevention
Eliminate standing water. Pests such as odorous house ants are attracted to
moisture. Keep tree branches and other plants cut back from the house.
Sometimes pests use these branches to get into your home. Make sure that there
are no cracks or little openings around the bottom of your house. Sometimes
pests use these to get into your home. Make sure that firewood and building
materials are not stored next to your home. Pests like to build nests in stacks
of wood. Remove potential food sources inside your home by wiping up spills,
keeping counter tops clean, and store food, especially sweets, in sealed
containers.
How to get rid of
odorous ants?
To eliminate an
Odorous house ant colony we recommend:
Gourmet Ant
Bait Gel
MaxForce
Triple Ant Gel Bait
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PAVEMENT ANT Tetramorium caespitum
Color: Dark brown to
blackish
Legs: Six
Shape: Segmented; oval
Size: 1/8"
Antennae: Yes
Flight: No
Pavement ants get their name because they make their nests in or under cracks
in pavement. They can infest structures.
Habits
These ants will eat almost anything, including insects, seeds, honeydew, honey,
bread, meats, nuts and cheese.
Habitat
These ants live in or under pavement cracks.
Threats
These ants do not pose a public health risk, but they can contaminate food and
should be avoided.
Prevention
Eliminate standing water. Pests, such as ants, are attracted to moisture.
Keep tree branches and other plants cut back from the house. Sometimes pests
use these branches to get into your home.* Make sure that there are no cracks
or little openings around your house. Sometimes pests use these to get into
your home. Make sure that firewood and building materials are not stored next
to your home. Pests like to build nests in stacks of wood.
Need to kill pavement ants?
To eliminate or
control an infestation of pavement ants we recommend:
Maxforce Granulars
Termidor SC
Gourmet Ant Bait Gel
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RED IMPORTED FIRE ANT Solenopsis invicta

Color: Dark reddish
brown
Legs: Six
Shape: Segmented; oval
Size: 1/8-3/8"
Antennae: Yes
Flight: No
Red imported fire ants nest in soil and build mound nests. They can infest
garages.
Habits
These ants will build large mound nests, and will sting humans who come across
a nest.
Habitat
Red imported fire ants will build their nest mounds outdoors in landscape areas
or near a structural foundation. The ant will gain entry to a building through
holes or cracks.
Threats
The sting of a red imported fire ant is painful and often results in a raised
welt that becomes a white pustule. Often, a person stung by a red imported fire
ant receives multiple painful stings from more than one of the ants. Persons
allergic to insect stings will react more severely.
Prevention
Red imported fire ants and their telltale mound nests should be actively
avoided. To prevent entry into a structure, seal all internal and external
cracks and crevices.
How to get rid of
fire ant
1. Baits... Baits work best
when used in the spring and are not recommended for use after July 1. When the
weather gets hot and dry, no bait will be very effective for fire ant
control. Baits work slowly----ant activity will gradually decrease over a
period of 30 days. The best fire ant bait on the market today is Maxforce
Granular Fire Ant Bait. One pound will cover one and one half acres.
Whenever baiting do not disturb the mound, put the bait around the mound, not
on top of the fire ant mound. Baits are easy to use and safe for nontarget animals
but they are slow.
2. Contact
Insectcide... This is definitely the quickest
and most complete route to make your yard fire ant free. Many different
insecticides will work but we recommend cypermethrin. Cypermethrin is fast and cost effective. Use only 1/2
ounce of cypermethrin per gallon of water. The trick to killing a fire ant
mound completely is to use a lot of volume, not a strong percentage of
insecticide. Poke a couple of holes into the mound and then pour 1/2 to one
gallon of finished solution into the mound, depending on the size of the mound.
You then spray in between the big mounds with cypermethrin, using a hose end sprayer, to eliminate all the small sattelite
mounds.
3. Retreatment... Because fire ants are continually re-colonizing,
re-treatments should be made on the emerging mounds throughout the year.
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VELVET ANTS -
COW KILLERS Various
Color: Body Black,
Covered with long white or yellowish setae.
Legs: Six
Shape: Segmented; oval
Size: 1/8-7/8"
Antennae: Yes
Flight: Male - Yes / Female - No
Velvet ants are not ants at all but rather solitary female wasps. These ants
parasitize bee and wasp nests. The females are quite large (up to 1/2 inch)
,wingless, very hairy and colored bright orange or red with black in between.
The sting from one of these wasps is one of the most painful of any insect.
Most
of the time only one of these wasps is seen at a time, posing no problem.
But at times there are many located in one area. Spraying with a
Cypermethrin compound will keep these wasps and ants under control.
Cypermethrin (Cynoff
WP.) is a synthetic pyrethroid
insecticide that is very safe to humans, pets and wildlife but is very
effective against a wide range of insects including ants, fire ants, roaches,
spiders and crickets
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Rodents ( Rat & Mice )

House mice are considered the most troublesome and
economically important rodents in the United States. Not only are they found in
houses, but in other structures as well. They are the most common mammal in
cities next to man. House mice live in and around homes, farms and commercial
establishments as well as in open fields and agricultural lands. The onset of
the cold weather each fall in temperate regions causes more to move into
structures in search of shelter and food. One of the most common signs of
infestations in structures is their droppings. House mice eat many types of food
but prefer seeds and grain. Mice can get by with little or no free water,
although they readily drink when it is available. House mice cause structural
damage to buildings by their gnawing and nest building activities. They often
make nests in large electrical appliances, where they may chew up wiring as well
as other insulation resulting in short-circuits, possible fires or other
malfunctions that are expensive to repair. Additionally, mice may damage stored
items and wiring in attics, basements, garages, or museums such as family
heirlooms, paintings, book, documents, pictures, etc.
Professional Rat Control
Procedures:
The proper procedures for rodent control are sometimes a
difficult chore for a homeowner. The information below is provided to help the
inexperienced make the necessary decisions for a successful rodent control
program. All of the rodent control products you will need are provided
throughout these pages.
If your rat infestation is only in the yard and there are
no pets or children on the premises, you only need to purchase the
CONTRAC BLOX RAT and MOUSE BAIT. Place the bait blocks in the
rat holes or any noticeable paths in the yard. Regular movements (foraging) of
rats will leave paths in the grass. Contrac Blox will kill rats and kill rats
fast. It is a single-feed bait.
When children or pets are present,
tamper resistant rodent stations are needed. You need to purchase
theProtecta LP(LowProfile)Rat
Stations or the regular
Protecta Rat Stations.
We recommend that you choose the
larger Protecta
Rat Stations if a
combination rat trapping & rat baiting program is necessary.
BEST BUY We now offer a Mice Kit
&Rats KITS containing
The Trapper T-Rax Snap Traps / Rat are
used inside the Protecta Rat Stations when children or pets are present or will be present. If
you suspect a rat problem is within your walls or indoors, baiting is not an
option. Baiting inside for large animals such as rats will only increase your
problem. Baiting will quickly solve the rat infestation but will create 3 more
problems. #1: Odor from the dead animals #2: Maggots and thousands of flies and
#3: The dead rats are rarely located. The odor from the dead rats will linger
for several weeks.
Indoor treatments should be done
with baited traps or glue boards. We recommend the Trapper T-Rax Snap Traps /
Rat because they
are easier, sanitary and safer to handle. The pre-formed holes
in the rat trap base allow for surface mounting if it s needed. Your fingers
never touch the dead rodent. The Trapper T-Rax Snap Traps / Rat are easy to clean and can be reused for years. They
are simple, safe, and sanitary. They will kill rats every time the trap is
sprung. No rats will be able to steal the bait.
After setting the baited traps indoors
you will also need to place some traps outside in the regular
Protecta
(Tamper Resistant) Rat Stations. The Protecta
Rat Station keeps
the Trapper T-Rax Snap Traps /
Rat out of
harms way to little children or pets. This larger station can be used with the
Trapper T-Rax Snap Traps / Rat
and follow-up
maintenance rat baiting or trapping.
All points of entry should be
sealed the same time you start your rodent control program. Why? A rat will not
change his habits easily, especially if he already has a safe path to food and
water. Sealing his points of entry will disrupt his normal routine and cause him
to wonder off the usual path. You will then start catching the rats. If you want
the right rodent control products to kill rats, we have all the supplies you
will need to succeed. Stuf-fit
Access Control copper mesh is the very best for most access control
sealing jobs. Some holes may require concrete. If you follow the
procedures that apply to your particular kind of infestation you WILL
solve your problem.
|
YOUR
PROBLEM |
SOLUTION |
(1) Rats in Yard (No children or
Pets) |
Contrac Weather
Blocs (Place in holes or rodent paths) |
(2) Rats seen in Home or heard in walls.
(No children or Pets) |
|
(3) Rats are in Yard or Home
(Children & Pets are Present) |
Protecta with the Trapper T-Rax Snap Traps /
Rat inside, outside or both. |
| (4) Not sure about the noise in the
walls. |
Trapper glue boards (Large & stronger) Pre-scented with peanut butter. Also good
monitoring tool. |
(5) You suspect it is squirrels
making the noise. |
Funnel traps is what you will need & this will funnel them
out of your attic or wall. Use conventional traps to trap returning squirrels
that are retiring for the day. |
If shingles or insulation is
on the ground, you may have raccoons. Check for paw prints on the gutter
downspouts or hair on a tree trunk. Raccoon traps can be purchased at
this
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Deer Mice Peromyscus maniculatus

Color: Brown, with white feet and underbelly
Legs:
Four Shape: Round Size: 5 to 8 inches
long Antennae: No Flight: No The deer mouse rarely invades homes, and is found in
rural areas.
Habits The deer mouse prefers the outdoors.
Habitat The deer mouse makes its home outdoors in sheltered areas such as hollow tree logs or piles of debris. On the rare occasions the deer mouse comes indoors, it prefers undisturbed areas such as attics.
Threats The deer mouse transmits the potentially fatal Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome. The disease can be transmitted through contact with mouse carcasses, or by breathing in aerosolized urine droplets of infected deer mice.
Prevention To keep mice and other rodents out, make sure all holes of larger diameter than a pencil are sealed. Mice can squeeze through spaces as small as a nickel. Seal any cracks and voids. Don't overlook proper drainage at the foundation and always install gutters or diverts which will channel water away from the building. Use heavy gloves and protective breathing gear when working in an area populated by deer mice.
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House Mice Mus Domesticus

Color:
Light brown to black
Legs: Four
Shape: Round
Size: 2"
Antennae: No
Flight: No
The house mouse is the most common rodent pest in most
parts of the world. It can breed rapidly and adapt quickly to changing
conditions.
Habits House mice can breed throughout the year and can share nests.
Habitat House mice live in structures, but they can live outdoors.
Threats Micro droplets of mouse urine can cause allergies in children. Mice can also bring fleas, mites, ticks and lice into your home.
Prevention To keep mice and other rodents out, make sure all holes of larger diameter than a pencil are sealed. Mice can squeeze through spaces as small as a nickel. Seal any cracks and voids. Don't overlook proper drainage at the foundation and always install gutters or diverts which will channel water away from the building.
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Norway Rats Rattus norvegicus

Color:
Gray, brown or black
Legs: Four
Shape: Long
Size: 10 to 12 inches (8"
body plus 4" tail)
Antennae: No
Flight: No
These rats have smaller eyes and ears and shorter tails.
Habits Rats are excellent climbers and often enter a home in the fall when outside food sources become scarce.
Habitat Norway rats live in fields, farm lands and in structures. Rats are often found in woodpiles. Rodents can gain entry to a home through a hole the size of a quarter.
Threats Rats can chew through wiring, causing fires. They also spread numerous diseases.
Prevention Keep firewood stored well away from the structure. Remove debris piles. Seal any holes larger than 1/4 inch. Remove moisture and harborage sources.
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Roof Rats Rattus rattus

Color:
Black
Legs: Four
Shape: Long
Size: 16" total
(6-8" body plus 6-8" tail)
Antennae: No
Flight: No
Roof rats get their name from their tendency to be found in the upper parts of buildings. Ranging in size from 6 to 8 inches in length, not including their tails, they have very poor vision and are color blind. They do have extremely strong senses of hearing, smell, touch and taste.
Habits Roof rats are known for the damage they cause by chewing on materials and eating stored foods.
Habitat Roof rats can be found in the upper parts of buildings, and can also be found under, in and around structures. They only need a space of one-half inch to get into buildings.
Threats Roof rats secured their place in history by spreading the highly dangerous bubonic plague. They support many ectoparasites and urinate on food.
Prevention To prevent rats from entering a home, seal up any holes or cracks larger than a quarter. Remove sources of moisture and harborage.
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Roach

Need to know how to get rid of
cockroaches in the home or business? Pest Products Online offers you effective
ways to get rid of roaches.
Because they reproduce rapidly and can enter your home in mass numbers, roaches
can be difficult to control. Once inside, they can destroy books, photographs,
electric appliances, and furniture by leaving their unsightly droppings causing
a foul odor.
These insects are known to spread bacteria, carry parasitic worms, and other
diseases. As they forage for food, they can deposit germs and bacteria on
counter tops, dishes, and in food, which can cause food poisoning, dysentery,
or diarrhea. Some people are allergic to roaches and medical studies have shown
that cockroaches are responsible for childhood asthma
Roaches can't help the fact that
to most humans, they are unwanted company. It's funny, though, how these pesky
insects can often make a grown man or woman scream, tremble and run for cover.
If you have a roach problem and the Raid TM just isn't working, and if you want
to get rid of roaches in your house,
Pest Products Online
offers you effective ways to get rid of roaches.
Because they reproduce rapidly and
can enter your home in mass numbers, roaches can be difficult to control.
Once inside, they can destroy books, photographs, electric appliances, and
furniture by leaving their unsightly
droppings causing a foul odor.
These insects are known to spread
bacteria, carry parasitic worms, and other diseases. As they forage for food, they can deposit germs and bacteria on counter tops, dishes, and in food, which
can cause food poisoning, dysentery, or diarrhea. Some people are allergic to roaches and medical studies
have shown that cockroaches are responsible for childhood asthma Roaches can't help the fact that
to most humans, they are unwanted company. It's funny, though, how these pesky insects can often make a grown man or woman scream, tremble and run for cover.
If you have a roach problem and the Raid TM just isn't working, and if you want to get rid of roaches in your
house, we have a 5 step cure that's
proven to work.
Basically, there are 5 species of
roaches that are common in the Western Hemisphere. It is interesting to note that each of these cockroaches has it's own distinct habits and traits, each
cockroach behaves differently. Therefore each must be treated differently.
For instance, the German cockroach
(the number 1 roach in the USA) is an indoor roach. Sometimes they
are called kitchen roaches or grocery store roaches because they live in kitchens
and bathrooms and infest cabinets.
Most of the time they are brought in through goods from the grocery
store. Brown Banded Roaches are also an indoor roach. They are common to closets where you will find small
clusters of eggs glued to the ceiling or to the walls. For these two roaches you must treat indoors, especially cabinets
and closets. Smoky Brown, American and Oriental
roaches can grow up to 2 or more inches in length and are commonly called water roaches, waterbugs, palmetto bugs, etc.. These roaches live
outdoors and treatment outdoors and especially under pier and beam homes (one of their favorite hiding places) will help to
keep them away.
5 Steps to a Happier, Bug Free Home.
Step 1: Cut down on their food supply You will leave less food for the
roaches if you:
Vacuum or sweep the floor after every meal.
Wash dishes in soapy, hot water to eliminate all traces of grease.
Keep trash in a tight-lidded container.
Keep compost as far from the house as possible. Cover each new
"deposit" with a fresh layer of sand or soil.
Store unused portions of chips, cereal, cookies, flour, sugar, rice, etc. in
tightly sealed plastic containers or large glass jars with screw-on lids.
After a pet has eaten, remove their food bowl and sweep the floor.
Don't walk through the house eating: contain crumbs in one room (less cleaning
for you).
Don't forget to clean crumbs from under appliances daily.
Step 2: Hit'em
Where They Hide ! Treatment for roaches involves
more than using Raid. Use what the Pros use and you will get results. Use Demon WP or Suspend SC and spray the outside
perimeter. (2 feet out and 2 feet up) Also spray around the windows, doors,
eaves and any cracks or crevices that lead into the structure. You have
to stop them from getting in.
Use Borid (Boric Acid) and put
it into the nooks and crannies where roaches hide. They is easily accomplished
by looking for small cracks and crevices along counters, behind and under
cabinets, etc.
For a "SUPER" cockroach treatment, remove all the switch plates and plumbing
covers throughout the structure and puff Borid into the switches or into the walls.
This usually requires about 2 lbs of Borid for an average size structure.
Sub areas under houses and attics may also need a light dusting of Borid.
Put the boric acid in a clean, dry duster such as the Centrobulb mini hand
duster. Using a flashlight, inspect cracks in areas where you have spied
roaches. Remember to check cracks between walls and floors, behind sinks and
under appliances. Where you can see them hiding, puff the boric acid into the
cracks.
Place Maxfoce roach gel in small pea
size placements in cabinets, along counters, etc..
Maxfoce Roach Gel can also be
placed under and behind appliances, furniture etc.
Maxfoce Roach Bait Stations can be
used for TV's, computers and sensitive electronic equipment.
Use an IGR (Insect Growth Regulator) such as Gentrol or Point Source
in really heavy roach infestations.
If you are seeing more than 4 or 5 roaches on a regular basis, then using a
growth regulator will give you much faster control. IGR's stop baby cockroaches
from maturing into fertile adults, thereby interrupting the egg laying process.
Step 3: Monitor, Monitor, Monitor ! If you don't know where they are,
how can you kill all of them? Use roach monitors (sticky traps)
such as the Victor Roach Monitor or the Trapper LTD and place them wherever you
think roaches are. By using monitors, you can easily find
"pockets" of roach hiding places, you may even find them in places
you never thought of. Use lots of monitors and check them every 2 weeks
or until the problem is gone. Monitors do not contain any pesticides, are
safe and allow for a professional style inspection. 3 or more monitors per room
is what is recommended. Place them under furniture, cabinets, behind
appliances, inside dressers, nightstands, be creative.
When you find roaches in a monitor check to see if they are baby roaches, or adults.
Finding baby roaches could lead you closer to the hiding spot. Check
everything within a 10 foot radius of the trap.
If roaches are found, treat as described in step 2. Put out a new
monitor and check it again in a couple of weeks.
Step 4: Dry Up
Their Water Supply Like humans, roaches can go much
longer without food than without water. To keep roaches away, keep them
thirsty.
Fix dripping faucets.
Pour some Lysol into toilets at night to make the water undrinkable.
Keep sink plugs over drains.
Don't over water house plants. Soggy soil is a delicious cockroach cocktail.
Step 5: Keep Them
Out ! To prevent roaches from migrating
from your neighbor's place to yours, seal up common roach entryways.
Fill holes where pipes
disappear into walls with Stuffit copper wool or caulk.
Cracks around windows, eaves, doors, etc, need to be caulked.
Doors need to have door sweeps so that roaches can't crawl under them.
On slab foundations, seal the weep holes with Stuffit copper wool.
On pier and beam foundations, make sure that all the vents are screened or
sealed.
Cockroach control usually requires an ongoing treatment program. Many
pest control companies will
require a monthly or quarterly treatment to guarantee that roaches will not
come back. Why not setup your own program ? Like the old saying
goes an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and in this case that
saying is 100% correct ! It only takes a few ounces of the right
pesticides placed into strategic places like those listed above every few
months to get good cockroach control. Don't expect to treat only 1 time
and the cockroaches to be gone forever. Mark your calendar and treat your
home or structure at least on a quarterly basis. If you do, you will get
good control, you will be happy with the results, and most of all, you will
have saved yourself several hundred dollars in the process !
Basically, there are 5 species of
roaches that are common in the Western Hemisphere. It is interesting to note that each of
these cockroaches has it's own distinct habits and traits, each cockroach behaves
differently. Therefore each must be treated differently.
For instance, the German cockroach (the number 1 roach in the USA) is an indoor roach. Sometimes they are
called kitchen roaches or grocery store roaches because they live in kitchens
and bathrooms and infest cabinets. Most of the time they are brought in through
goods from the grocery store. Brown Banded Roaches
are also an indoor roach. They are common to closets where you will find small
clusters of eggs glued to the ceiling or to the walls. For these two roaches
you must treat indoors, especially cabinets and closets.
Smoky Brown, American and Oriental roaches can grow up to 2 or more inches
in length and are commonly called water roaches, waterbugs, palmetto bugs,
etc.. These roaches live outdoors and treatment outdoors and especially under
pier and beam homes (one of their favorite hiding places) will help to keep
them away.
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American Cockroach

Color: Reddish brown, with a
yellowish figure 8 pattern on the back of the head
Legs: Six
Shape: Oval
Size: 2"
Antennae: Yes
Flight: Yes Habits American cockroaches are found in food processing areas and food storage areas, as well as other types of buildings. They are active when the temperature is 70 degrees or higher, but they can survive lower temperatures with the right conditions.
Habitat American cockroaches are often found in sewers and basements, particularly around pipes and drains.
Threats Cockroaches have been reported to spread at least 33 kinds of bacteria, six kinds of parasitic worms, and at least seven other kinds of human pathogens. They can pick up germs on the spines of their legs and bodies as they crawl through decaying matter or sewage and then carry these into food or onto food surfaces. Germs that cockroaches eat from decaying matter or sewage are protected while in their bodies and may remain infective for several weeks longer than if they had been exposed to cleaning agents, rinse water, or just sunlight and air. ecent medical studies have shown that cockroach allergens cause lots of allergic reactions in inner city children. They were even shown to cause asthma in children. These allergens build up in deposits of droppings, secretions, cast skins, and dead bodies of roaches.
Prevention Good sanitation and habitat reduction, along with vacuuming, surveillance, a baiting program, and some sealing of cracks can usually quickly reduce or eliminate a cockroach population.
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Brownbanded Cockroaches

Color: Brown, with pronounced
banding across wings
Legs: Six
Shape: Oval
Size: 1/2"
Antennae: Yes
Flight: Yes
Brown banded cockroaches get their name from the two
lighter bands they have across their dark brownish bodies. In addition to the
distinctive banding, males have full wings, which reach beyond the tip of their
rather pointed abdomens, but females have underdeveloped wings, much shorter
than their broad, rounded abdomens. The lighter band markings are much more
distinct in nymphs than in adults of either sex.
Habits Male brownbanded cockroaches have been observed to fly indoors. Among cockroach species, brownbanded cockroaches have the most distinctions between sexes. Females have larger abdomen and shorter wings than males. Brownbanded cockroaches often hide their egg cases in or under furniture.
Habitat Within a room, these roaches tend to prefer warmer, drier, and higher locations than do any of the other urban pest roaches. They are often found in upper cabinets or in other rooms than the kitchens (food preparation areas) or bathrooms.
Threats Cockroaches have been reported to spread at least 33 kinds of bacteria, six kinds of parasitic worms, and at least seven other kinds of human pathogens. They can pick up germs on the spines of their legs and bodies as they crawl through decaying matter or sewage and then carry these into food or onto food surfaces. Germs that cockroaches eat from decaying matter or sewage are protected while in their bodies and may remain infective for several weeks longer than if they had been exposed to cleaning agents, rinse water, or just sunlight and air. ecent medical studies have shown that cockroach allergens cause lots of allergic reactions in inner city children. They were even shown to cause asthma in children. These allergens build up in deposits of droppings, secretions, cast skins, and dead bodies of roaches.
Prevention Good sanitation and habitat reduction, along with vacuuming, surveillance, a baiting program, and some sealing of cracks can usually quickly reduce or eliminate a cockroach population.
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Oriental Cockroaches

Color: Dark brown, almost
black
Legs: Six
Shape: Oval
Size: 1"
Antennae: Yes
Flight: No
Oriental Cockroaches, Blatta orientalis (L.), are
large very dark (almost black, but sometimes dark reddish-brown), shiny
cockroaches which live in sewers and similar wet, decaying organic matter. They
are sometimes called ater bugs because they come out of drains, and lack
beetle cockroaches?because of their smooth, dark bodies. Males are about 1 inch
long, with wings that cover only about 3/4 of their abdomen; females are about
1 1/4 inch long, and have only short stubs of wing pads.
Habits This species of cockroach often travels through sewer pipes. It survives on filth and enjoys temperatures from 68 to 84 degrees. This is a cooler temperature than that preferred by other cockroach species.
Habitat Oriental cockroaches are often found in sewers and will enter structures through drains. They find indoor harborage in basements and crawl spaces. They can also be found in leaf piles and firewood outdoors.
Threats Cockroaches have been reported to spread at least 33 kinds of bacteria, six kinds of parasitic worms, and at least seven other kinds of human pathogens. They can pick up germs on the spines of their legs and bodies as they crawl through decaying matter or sewage and then carry these into food or onto food surfaces. Germs that cockroaches eat from decaying matter or sewage are protected while in their bodies and may remain infective for several weeks longer than if they had been exposed to cleaning agents, rinse water, or just sunlight and air. ecent medical studies have shown that cockroach allergens cause lots of allergic reactions in inner city children. They were even shown to cause asthma in children. These allergens build up in deposits of droppings, secretions, cast skins, and dead bodies of roaches.
Prevention Good sanitation and habitat reduction, along with vacuuming, surveillance, a baiting program, and some sealing of cracks can usually quickly reduce or eliminate a cockroach population.
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To
control Spiders we recommand
Tempo SC
ECO Pco
ACU Bifen I/T
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Black widow spiders are most recognized for the red hourglass shape on
the back. Contrary to legend, female black widow spiders rarely devour the male
black widow spider after mating. Black widow spiders spin their webs near ground
level. They often build their webs in protected areas, such as in boxes and in
firewood. Black widow spiders are often found around wood piles and gain entry
into a structure when firewood is carried into a building. They are also found
under eaves, in boxes, and other areas where they are undisturbed. The venom of
a black widow spider is a neurotoxin and is used as a defense. Black widow
spiders do not bite humans instinctively. The black widow spider bite can cause
severe pain. Young children and the elderly are especially susceptible to a
severe reaction to a black widow spider bite. Avoid black widow spider bites by
wearing heavy gloves when moving items that have been stored for a long period
of time. Spiders often hide in shoes, so check shoes and shake them out before
wearing. When spider webs are visible, use caution before putting your hands or
feet in that area.
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Brown recluse spiders have a characteristic dark brown
violin marking on their back. Brown recluse spiders are nocturnal and eat other
bugs like cockroaches and crickets. Male brown recluse spiders wander farther
than females and will crawl into shoes or other clothing. Brown recluse spiders
often live outdoors in debris and wood piles. They can be found indoors in
storage areas and dark recesses. Like the black widow spider, the brown recluse
spider bites in defense and does not bite humans instinctively. They will bite
humans when the clothing they are hiding in is worn. The brown recluse spider
bite is painful and can produce an open, ulcerating sore. To avoid brown recluse
spiders, avoid keeping clothing on the floor. Store clothing and shoes inside
plastic containers, and shake out all clothing that has been in a hamper before
wearing or washing.
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House Flies

Color: Dark
gray Legs: Six Shape: Small oval
Size: 1/4 of an
inch Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
House flies get their name from being the most common
fly found around homes. Adult house flies can grow to one-quarter of an inch
long and usually live between 15 and 25 days.
Habits They are only able to feed on liquids but have the ability to
turn many solid foods into a liquid for them to eat. House flies taste with
their feet, which are 10 million times more sensitive to sugar than the human
tongue.
Habitat House flies tend to stay within 1-2 miles of where they were
born; however, they have been known to migrate up to 20 miles to find
food.
Threats These insects have been known to carry over 100 different kinds
of disease-causing germs, which makes them very bad house
guests.
Prevention House flies can be controlled through vigilant sanitation.
Remove trash regularly and use well-sealing garbage receptacles. Clean up pet
waste immediately. Use fine mesh screens on doors and windows to prevent fly
entry.
To eliminate house flies from your
kitchen, we recommend:
Maxforce Granular Fly Bait QUIKSTRIKE FLY ABATEMENT STRIP
2pcs Drain Gel
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Fruit Flies

Color: Tan/ light
abdomen Legs: Six Shape: Small
oval Size: 1/8 of an
inch Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
Fruit flies feed on decaying fruits and vegetables.
Habits Fruit flies feed on decaying matter, especially fruits and
vegetables.
Habitat Fruit flies are small pests that are commonly found in homes,
restaurants and other facilities where food is processed. They are found on
moist, decaying matter that has been stationary for several days.
Threats Fruit flies are found in unsanitary conditions, so they are a
potential heath concern, especially when present in health facilities.
Prevention Fruit flies are best prevented through vigilant sanitation
practices. Remove kitchen trash daily, and keep counter surfaces
clean.
To eliminate house flies from your
kitchen, we recommend:
Vector
Fruit Fly Trap Fly-web-light Vector
Discreet Drain
Gel
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Bed Bugs

Color: Mahogany to rusty brown; red after a blood
meal Legs: Six Shape: Flat; broad
oval Size: 1/4 Antennae: Yes Flight: No
Bedbugs get their name because they like to live and feed in
beds.
Habits Bedbugs like to travel and will hide in suitcases, boxes and shoes to be
near a food supply. They are elusive, nocturnal creatures. They can hide behind
baseboards, electrical switchplates, picture frames, even wall paper. They come
out at night for a blood meal.
Habitat Bedbugs like to hide in small cracks and crevices close to a human
environment. They can be found behind baseboards, wallpaper, upholstery, and in
furniture crevices.
Threats Although bedbugs can dine on any warm-blooded animal, they primarily dine on
humans. Bedbugs do not transmit diseases, but their bites can become red, itchy
welts.
Prevention Vacuum suitcases after returning from a vacation. Check your bedsheets for
tell-tale blood spots. Bedbugs are elusive creatures, so it is imperative to
seek professional pest control to address an infestation.
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Flea

Fleas cannot breed unless the host animal is present, for example
a cat flea can only breed whilst there is a resident cat. They will however jump
onto other animals or humans and feed on the blood to survive.
Size: Small, wingless, about 1/12- to 1/6-inch long. Covered in spines
with piercing mouthparts. Reddish brown color
Fleas cannot breed unless the host animal is present, for example
a cat flea can only breed whilst there is a resident cat. They will however jump
onto other animals or humans and feed on the blood to survive.
Habits
A parasite that attaches to a host
Feeding & Breeding
Like other fleas found in homes, they cause discomfort by biting, but they
can also transmit several diseases such as plague and urine typhus. Larvae
feed on organic debris, particularly the feces of adult fleas, which contain
undigested blood. Eggs are not attached to the host. Eggs will hatch on the
ground, in nests, carpet, bedding, upholstery or cracks in the floor. Most hatch
within 7 to 14 days.
Control Tips
You may be able to control a small flea infestation by taking these simple
steps:
- Check and treat your pets with an appropriate flea spray or powder using the
product as directed on the container.
- The infested area should be thoroughly cleaned using a vacuum cleaner,
paying particular attention to carpet or floor edges.
- Pet bedding and upholstery should be thoroughly vacuumed and where possible
washed. Washing should be done preferably at a temperature of 50°C or more, but
more importantly in accordance with the care labels.
The infested areas should then be treated with an insecticide
spray formulated for fleas. Once you have sprayed the areas you should leave
them for ten days before vacuuming thoroughly and repeating the treatment.
The insecticide will kill only adult fleas, it does not kill flea
eggs, and this is why you will possibly need to repeat the treatment more than
once for it to be effective.
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Carpenter Bees

Color: Blue-black, green or purple metallic sheen on
abdomen Legs: Six Shape: Oval; bee
shape Size: 1 Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
Carpenter bees look like typical bumblebees but often lack yellow
stripes. They are solitary bees.
Habits
Unlike bumble bees, carpenter bees are solitary insects. Female carpenter
bees will chew a tunnel into a piece of wood to build a nest gallery. The bits
of wood she chews and deposits outside the nest are called frass. The male
carpenter bee guards the outside of the nest. He does not have a stinger, but
his constant buzzing causes concern for some.
Habitat
Carpenter bees bore through soft woods to lay eggs and protect their larvae
as they develop.
Threats
Carpenter bees do not pose a public health threat, but they can damage wood
through their nest building.
Prevention
Carpenter bees prefer bare wood, so painting and staining wood can sometimes
deter them. However, they will sometimes attack stained or painted wood, so
contact a pest control professional for
assistance.
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Africanized ("Killer") Bees

Color: Golden-yellow with darker bands of
brown. Legs: Six Shape: Oval; bee
shape Size: 1/2 Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
Africanized "killer" bees looks so much like a regular honeybee
that the only way to tell the two apart is by measuring their bodies.
Africanized bees have different wing measurements than honeybees.
Habits
These bees defend their colony and attack when threatened.
Habitat
Africanized bees have small colonies, so they can build nests in unique
places. They have been known to live in tires, crates, boxes, and empty
cars.
Threats
Their venom is no more dangerous than regular honeybees-they just tend to
attack in greater numbers, which causes more danger to humans.
Prevention
Because of the aggressive nature of these pests and the enormity of their
nests, a pest control professional or beekeeper must address an infestation. If
you are chased by Africanized honeybees, run in a zig zag pattern and seek
shelter in a house or car.
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Bumble Bees

Color: Black with yellow
stripes Legs: Six Shape: Oval; bee
shape Size: 1" Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
Bumble bees are beneficial insects because they pollinate crops
and plants.
Habits
The occupant of a disturbed bumble bee nest will buzz in a loud volume. They
defend their nests aggressively.
Habitat
Bumble bees often nest in the ground, but can be found above ground around
patio areas or decks. They will sometimes build their ness in soffits of
attics.
Threats
As part of their aggressive defense of their nests, bumble bees will chase
nest invaders for a considerable distance. The bumble bee sting is one of the
most painful. Unlike honey bees, bumble bees can sting more than
once.
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Honey Bees
Color: Predominantly golden-yellow with brown
bands Legs: Six Shape: Oval; bee
shape Size: 1/2 Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
Honey bees are social insects found all over the world. They are
an extremely important beneficial insect because of their role in pollination.
Honey bees pollinate more than 100 crops in the U.S.
Habits
Honeybees are active pollinators, and produce honey which feeds their young
in colder months. The honeybee is the only social insect whose colony can
survive many years.
Habitat
Honeybees produce honey from pollen and nectar of the plants they pollinate.
They store the honey in honeycombs in their nests. They often build their nests
in tree crevices, but will occasionally build nests in attics or
chimneys.
Threats
Honeybees do sting, but they only sting once. The sting can be extremely
painful if the stinger is not immediately removed from the sting. Persons
allergic to insect stings will have a more severe reaction.
Prevention
Honeybees should be addressed by a professional. Removal of a honeybee nest
and the honey product can be very messy. Because honeybee colonies are so large,
only a pest control professional or experienced beekeeper can safely remove a
honeybee nest.
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Wasp
Color: Yellow and black Legs:
Six Shape: bee shape ,black head and thorax.
Size: 3/8~5/8 inch long Antennae:
Yes Flight: Yes
The wasps can cause alarm when present in large numbers and if the nest is
in a place where the individuals from it interfere with humans they can inflict
painful and sometimes dangerous stings
Damage
Hundreds (perhaps thousands) of people in the United States die each year
from allergic reactions to the venom of this insect. Wasp is more dangerous and
unpredictable than honey bees
Appearance
Size: They are fairly large insects approximately 30mm in length. Color:
Their bodies have a characteristic black and yellow band across the abdomen
Habitat
Wasp nests may be found in roof spaces, wall cavities and air grates of
buildings, hanging from trees, as well as underground. A normal nest can contain
from 3,000 to 5,000 individuals depending on its size, by late
summer.
Control Tips
Knockdown insecticidal aerosol spray i.e. "Flying Insect Killer" can be used
to treat occasional wasps that become a problem when they appear indoors. Nests
that are built in lofts or under eaves are more difficult to treat yourself and
are best treated from the outside. If the nest is treated from inside the loft
you may not be able to get at the nest entrance to treat if effectively and if
you disturb the nest during treatment you may encounter a swarm of angry wasps
trying to protect their nest.
***REMEMBER***
Extreme care must be exercised when treating wasp nests.
Anteaters Pest
Control Program will protect your home and family from Wasp.
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Mosquitoes

Color: Varies; Pale brown with whitish stripes across
abdomen Legs: Six Shape: Narrow
Oval Size: 1/4-3/8" Antennae: Yes
Flight: Yes
One of the best known summer pests, mosquitoes breed in stagnant
water or soft soil and can develop from egg to adult in 10 to 14
days.
Habits
Female mosquitoes suck our blood. Male mosquitoes feed on plant nectars.
They can develop from egg to adult in 10 to 14 days. They are most active from
dusk to dawn and will fly up to 14 miles for a blood meal.
Habitat
Mosquitoes breed in stagnant water sources such as storm drains, old tires,
children's wading pools and birdbaths.
Threats
Mosquitoes are well-known to spread diseases such as West Nile Virus, malaria
and dengue fever.
Prevention
Eliminate or reduce mosquito breeding sites by replacing all standing water
at least once a week. This includes bird baths, ponds and unfiltered pools.
Remove unneeded vegetation or trash from around any standing water sources that
cannot be changed, dumped or removed. Introduce mosquito-eating fish such as
gambusia, green sunfish, bluegills and minnows to standing water. Screen
windows, doors and other openings with mesh. Avoid going outdoors when and where
mosquitoes are most active: during dusk or dawn. Use insect repellent containing
DEET on exposed skin whenever or wherever mosquitoes are likely to bite.
To eliminate an mosquitoes colony we
suggest: PROPANE
INSECT FOGGER Dr T's Mosqutos Repellent Riptide
5.0 % Pyrethrin ULV Mosquito
Dunks
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Blacklegged (Deer) Ticks

Color: Dark brown to black
body Legs: Eight Shape: Flat; broad
oval Size: 1/8
" Antennae: No Flight: No
The blacklegged tick is named for its dark legs, which are a
contrast to its pale body. Blacklegged ticks are sometimes called deer
ticks.
Habits
These ticks like to feed on the blood of white-tailed deer, which is why
they are sometimes called deer ticks.
Habitat
Blacklegged ticks prefer to hide in grass and shrubs.
Threats
Blacklegged (deer) ticks can spread Lyme Disease.
Prevention
When in an area where ticks are common, wear long sleeved shirts and pants,
preferably light colored so ticks will be easy to detect. Tuck pants into socks.
Use a tick repellent. When you return indoors, inspect clothing and skin
thoroughly for ticks, including head. Wash clothes
immediately.
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Scorpion

Color: Can vary widely between yellow, blue, reddish
brown, and black Legs: Eight Shape:
powerful claw-like pincers and ‘tail’, bearing a poisonous sting
Size: most measure about 2 inches fully grown
Antennae: No Flight: No
While they will sting if someone accidentally contacts them, their sting is
seldom more painful than that of a wasp or honeybee.
Damage
Scorpions are of concern because of the painful sting they can inflict when
threatened. Any scorpion sting can be serious to anyone that is allergic to
insect stings. A physician should attend to all stings.
Appearance
Size: Scorpion sizes vary between species but most measure about 2" fully
grown. Color: Their colors vary between yellow, reddish brown, and black
Habitat
They crawl into buildings through exterior cracks in search of food or
suitable shelter. Scorpions are night feeders, and are attracted to water,
swimming pools, and irrigation areas. Scorpions live both outside in wood piles,
palm trees, decorative bark, and inside homes or places that are dark and
cool.
Control Tips
To reduce scorpions around a home, eliminate as many piles of items or debris
on the ground and keep dense vegetation to a minimum.
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Varied Carpet Beetles

Color: Black centers, with white, brown and yellow patches
in an irregular
arrangement Legs: Six Shape: Round Size: 1/16
Antennae: Yes Flight: No Varied carpet
beetles get their name from the rainbow of color on their back
surfaces.
Habits
These pests enjoy dining on carpets, woolen fabrics, dead insects, furs,
hides, feathers, horns, hair, silk and bones. It can take 249-354 days to three
years for varied carpet beetles to grow from an egg to an adult.
Habitat
Varied carpet beetles are found in homes in attics, Oriental carpets,
tapestries and wood-based wall-to-wall carpeting.
Threats
Varied carpet beetles feed on dead insects, but also feed on upholstery and
carpet, so they can damage those materials. They can also damage clothing
fabric.
Prevention
As with moths, to avoid varied carpet beetle infestations, store clothing in
plastic containers. Dry clean clothing thoroughly before storing for long
periods of time.
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Powderpost Beetles

Color: Reddish brown to
black Legs: Six Shape: Narrow
oval Size: 1/8 to
1/4" Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
Powderpost beetles lay their eggs in cracks of wood and the larvae
tunnel into the surface, filling it with a very fine powder-like dust.
Powderpost beetles have long, narrow, flat bodies that allow them to easily
attack wood surfaces. These beetles are reddish-brown in color.
Habits
Adult powderpost beetles are very active at night, enjoy flying and are
attracted to the light.
Habitat
Powderpost beetles often attack hardwoods, and can be found in hardwood
floors, timbers and crates, antiques and other objects made of hardwood
materials.
Threats
Some researchers believe that powderpost beetles are second only to termites
in the United States in their destructiveness to wood and wood
products.
Prevention
Powderpost beetles can be prevented through vigilant inspection of wood
sources in the home.
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Merchant Grain Beetles
Color:
Brown Legs: Six Shape: Narrow
oval Size: 1/10 Antennae: Yes Flight: No
Merchant grain beetles are typically not found in grain products,
but instead like to attack cereals, cake mixes, macaroni, cookies and chocolate.
Merchant grain beetles are dark brown and have six saw-like teeth on each side
of their bodies. They can grow to be one-eighth of an inch long and have very
flat bodies.
Habits
The merchant grain beetle's body shape allows it to crawl into packaging to
eat, live and have babies.
Habitat
Merchant grain beetles are found in pantries or in food processing areas or
warehouses.
Threats
Merchant grain beetles can infest stored food products and can contaminate
food.
Prevention
Discard infested packages. Clean spilled grain and food
sources.
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Earwigs
Color: Dark brown
Legs: Six Shape: Long,
narrow Size: 1 Antennae: Yes Flight: No
Earwigs got their name from the myth that they crawl into sleeping
people's ears and tunnel into their brains. The long cerci, or clippers, on
their backsides easily identify an earwig.
Habits
Earwigs hide during the day and feeds on leaves, flowers, fruits, mold and
insects at night.
Habitat
These insects live together outdoors in large numbers. They can be found
under piles of lawn debris, mulch or in tree holes. They gain entry to a
structure through exterior cracks
Threats
Contrary to folklore, earwigs do not crawl into ears and eat peoples' brains
at night. They do not spread diseases, but their menacing appearance can be
alarming to a homeowner.
Prevention
Remove harborage sites such as leaf piles, mulch piles or other vegetation.
Seal cracks and crevices well to prevent structural
entry.
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Idian Meal Moths

Color: Copper reddish coloring on outer part of
wings Legs: Six Shape: Elongated
oval Size: 5/8" Antennae: Yes Flight: Yes
The indianmeal moth was given its name after an insect scientist
found it feeding on corn meal, also known as Indian meal. From wing tip to wing
tip, adult moths measure from five-eighths of an inch to three-fourths of an
inch long.
Habits
These moths like to feed on dried fruits, grains, seeds, nuts, chocolate,
candies, bird seed, dog food, powdered milk, dried red peppers and
candy.
Habitat
Attracted to the light, these bugs are found worldwide in areas where food
is stored, such as grocery stores.
Threats
Indian Meal Moths infest foods and can contaminate food
products.
Prevention
Dried food products should be inspected thoroughly for signs of moth
infestations. Discard infested foods in outdoor trash bins. Clean infested
cupboards thoroughly with a vacuum and soap and water. Store food in sealed
containers
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Pillbugs

Color: Dark brown to black Legs: Seven
pair Shape: Oval; round when rolled
up Size: 3/4" Antennae: Yes Flight: No
This pest is the only crustacean that has become completely
adapted to spending its life on land. Pillbugs have oval bodies and seven pairs
of legs. They are easily recognized by their back, which is made up of seven
hard individual plates. Pillbugs are sometimes referred to as
rollie-pollies.
Habits
Pillbugs eat decaying vegetable material and are most active at night. They
are known for their ability to roll into a ball.
Habitat
Pillbugs live in moist locations. They are found under damp objects or under
vegetable debris.
Threats
Pillbugs do not spread diseases or invade food products. However, the pillbug
is often considered a pest when it gains entry into a home.
Prevention
Pillbugs can be avoided by eliminating food sources such as vegetable or
plant debris. If pillbugs enter a structure, they will often dry out and
die.
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Centipede

Damage
Centipedes have pair of poison claws behind the head and use the poison to
paralyze their prey but they are not usually harmful to humans. Some species can
inflict a painful bite.
Appearance
Most centipedes found around buildings rarely measure longer than 2 inches.
Color:Most are brownish or orange-brown.
Habitat
This centipede can be found outside under stones, boards, or sticks or
beneath moist leaf litter and other organic
matter.
Control Tips
Eliminate dark, damp nesting areas inside the home. Anteaters Pest
Control Program will protect your home and family from Centipede.
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Cricket
Damage
All kinds of crickets may be considered a nuisance because of their
"chirping," none of them bites or carries diseases.
Appearance
Size: There are several species of field crickets ranging in
size from 1/4 to 3/4 inch Color: Body is
yellowish-brown.
Habitat
Active at night. Attracted to lights
Control Tips
Seal cracks, gaps and holes in foundation, siding, windows, doors, screens,
and other possible entry points. Remove vegetation and debris from next to the
house that serves as a hiding place or breeding site.
Anteaters Pest Control
Program will protect your home and family from Cricket.
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Clover Mite
Damage
Clover mites are merely nuisance pests and don't cause noticeable damage to
grass, or breed indoors. When mashed, the dead mite leaves a
red mark that resembles blood.
Appearance
Size: Clover mites are tiny, the adults being smaller than the head of a
pin Color: darker reddish brown
Habitat
This mite has a habit (in their natural surroundings) of migrating to trees
where they hide in the tree's bark. If close to a home, the arachnid considers
the building the same as it would a tree - a wonderful place to hide from
extreme temperatures. Entering through tiny openings around windows and doors,
the clover mite invades the wall voids of the structure and then enter the house
itself.
Control Tips
Removing all vegetation next to the home will eliminate clover mites
Anteaters Pest Control Program will protect your home and family from Clover
Mite.
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Grasshopper

Damage
Grasshoppers are one of the most destructive insect pest of crops and
rangeland. They are voracious feeders, consuming approximately one-half of their
body weight per day.
Appearance
Size: 1-2" long Color: brown to reddish yellow or green
Habitat
They roost in trees and shrubs, as well as turf areas.
Control Tips
Homeowners can protect valuable plants, to some extent, through the use of
residual insecticides. Geotextile fabrics can be used as barriers to protect
valuable vegetables and specimen ornamental plants. Also, landscape plants
that are less attractive to grasshoppers can be
used.
Anteaters Pest Control Program will protect your home
and family from Grasshopper.
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Millipede

Damage
Millipedes are not poisonous, but many species have repugnatorial glands
capable of producing mild acids which may produce allergenic reactions in
sensitive individuals .
Appearance
Size: 5/8 to 4-inches in length. Color: brown or black, but some species
are orange or red.
Habitat
Millipedes normally are found outdoors where they feed on damp and decaying
wood, organic material, and will also feed on tender roots and green leaves that
have fallen to the ground.
Control Tips
Homeowners can eliminate damp, dark hiding places by reducing mulch use
around the home and moving wood piles.
Anteaters Pest Control Program will
protect your home and family from Milipede
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Silverfish

Damage
Silverfish can damage book bindings, wallpaper, paper goods and dry foods.
They may eat holes, irregular shaped in the wallpaper to get to the paste.
Silverfish may bite very small holes in various fabrics, including cotton,
linen, and silk, even though they cannot digest either linen or cotton
Appearance
Size: 1/2 inch long, Color: uniform silvery color over the upper surface
Habitat
Silverfish are found in basements, kitchens, sinks, bathtubs, in bookcases,
on closet shelves, behind baseboards, wallpaper, window or door frames, wall
voids, and sub-floor areas.
Control Tips
Sources of any undue moisture, such as faulty plumbing or condensation that
provide the humidity favored by these pests should be eliminated.
Dehumidifying reduces the moisture content of the air that these insects
find essential. Some methods for dehumidifying include: Mend leaking pipes.
Ventilate closed rooms and attics. Eliminate standing water. Use a
dehumidifier an air conditioner.
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Termites
 
Drawing- a courtesy of University of Nebraska-Lincoln
Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources
ANTS OR TERMITES ?
Do I have ants or
termites? This can be a very troublesome question. Some of the flying winged
ants can resemble the winged-swarming termite. Here are some ways do identify
the difference between the physical resemblance.
While both
species have four wings, the termite wings are all the same size and the
ant wings have noticeably larger wings in the front as compared to the
hind pair.
Termites have
an almost straight antennae, the ants antennae are elbowed.
Termite wings
are twice as long as the body.
Ants appear
distinctly segmented, because of their thin-waisted appearance. Termites
have a broad-waisted appearance.
Carpenter
ant: Carpenter ants are
black or brown and measure up to 1" in length. They are often confused
with termites. Unlike termites they have pinched waists and elbowed antennae.
Termites have straight bodies and antennae. As with termites, there is a winged
version too. Carpenter ants can
do significant structural damage, but are more a nuisance than a structural
problem.
Investigation:There are several
ways to recognize a carpenter ant infestation:
1.Swarmers:
Winged form of the carpenter ant in a great number
2.Sawdust: If you see sawdust(frass) raining from your ceiling or from any
indoor cracks.
3.If you see more than 10 ants a day in any room other than the kitchen.
4.If you see ants in your home and the ground outside is frozen.
5.Crunching Noise( If you hear munching, rustling or crunching noise coming
from within a window sill, wall or ceiling).
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Termite Damage

Damage: Replace two wall
studs, small section of bottom plate and plywood subfloor in a hall
bath. Cost: Approx. $2907.02
Damage: Replace two kitchen wall studs adjacent to window unit and to
the rear of the cabinet. Cost: Approx. $2387.56* *Repair costs were estimated using an independent property
adjusting firm (9/96)
Depending on the construction of
your home, it's geographical location, moisture, heat and soil conditions,
termite chemicals used today typically break down in three to five
years.
Central heating systems in today's homes make it possible for
termites to live in the adjacent soil all year long.
A typical house
can have multiple colonies situated under or around it. Because there can be
as many as 2,000,000 subterranean termites per colony, the threat of infestation is always
great. Protection usually costs far less than
repairs.
TOP
Dampwood Termite
Family:
Kalotermitidae C. formosanus
Family Hodotermitidae
Color: brownish
Legs: 6
Shape: Long, narrow, oval
Size: 1/2" to 5/8"
Antennae: yes
Flight: yes
Need to know how to
kill termites? Pestmall currently offers termite insecticide for your home or
business.
These insects are usually larger in size than other termite species. The bodies
of the king and queen range in size
from ½ to 5/8 of an inch and have 2 pairs of wings. They produce distinctive
fecal pellets that are elongated and rounded at both ends.
Habitat
They nest in wood
buried in the ground or where wood is high in moisture, such as in fallen trees
or tree stumps. They are not normally
found in structures unless the wood has high moisture. These pests are social
and can form large colonies rapidly.
Health Risks
Termites do not
sting or bite and are not known to carry or transmit diseases. Let us assist
you on how to kill termites in your residence.
Property Damage They
cause damage by boring holes and tunnels throughout wood. Most species of
termites have microscopic,
one-celled animals called protozoa. Their intestines help converting wood into
food for the colony.
Prevention
Destroy shelter tubes to interrupt access to wooden substructures and to open
colonies to attack from natural enemies such as ants.
Ventilate crawl spaces and install a moisture barrier. Remove infested wood and
tree stumps and do not store fire wood or lumber
on the ground next to your home. Water from downspouts and gutters should divert
water away from the structure.
To rid your home of
Dampwood Termites, we suggest:
Timbor
Professional
See
All Our Termite Products
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Drywood Termites

Color: light brown
Legs: 6
Shape: long, narrow, oval
Size: 3/8" to 1”
Antennae: yes
Flight: yes
Getting rid of
termites in your home or business can be difficult. However,
Pestmall provides you the tools the professionals
use in termite extermination. Order now and save!
Drywood termites
form colonies of up to 2,500 members. The termite colonies do not have a worker
caste.
Instead, the work is done by immature termites before they reach adulthood.
Their fecal pellets are elongate with rounded ends and have six flattened or
roundly
depressed surfaces separated by six longitudinal ridges
They have a low
moisture requirement and can tolerate dry conditions for long periods. They
remain above ground and do not connect their
nests to the soil. These insects infest dry wood, including lumber, dead limbs,
utility poles, fence posts, and lumber in storage. They seasonally
migrate to nearby buildings and other structures on warm days.
Health Risks
:Termites do not sting or bite and are not known to carry or transmit diseases.
Property Damage
They cause damage by
boring holes and tunnels throughout wood. Most species of termites have
microscopic, one-celled animals called
protozoa within their intestines that help to convert wood into food for the
colony.
Prevention
Ventilate crawl
spaces and install a moisture barrier. Remove infested wood and tree stumps and
do not store fire wood or lumber on the
ground next to your home. Use pressure-treated and chemically resistant wood to
build a structure.
To rid your home of
Drywood Termites, We suggest:
Bora
Care
CB
D-Foam
See
All Our Termite Products
TOP
Formosan Termites
Color: yellowish brown
Legs: 6
Shape: Long, narrow, oval
Size: ½”
Antennae: yes
Flight: yes
Habitat
Killing
termites in your home or business? Pestmall is a complete solution for termite
pest control. Order now and save!
The
Formosan termite is a subterranean species that is about ½ inch in length,
including its wings. Originally from China, these termites are among the most aggressive in attacking wood.
Habitat
They
build earthen-shelter tubes to protect themselves from low humidity and
predators. The tubes are usually ¼ to 1 inch wide and
can be found in crawl spaces and inside and outside slab foundations. Cracks in
concrete foundations and open voids in concrete
block foundations are hidden avenues of entry for Formosan termites.
Health
Risks: Termites do not sting or bite and are not known to carry or transmit
diseases.
Property
Damage
Termites
cause damage by boring holes and tunnels throughout wood. Most species of
termites have microscopic, one-celled
animals called protozoa within their intestines that help to convert wood into
food for the colony. Often, wood must be removed to
see the damage; however, galleries can be detected by tapping the wood every
few inches with a screwdriver handle.
Damaged wood sounds hollow, and the screwdriver may break through the wood if
termites are present.
Prevention
Destroy
shelter tubes to interrupt access to wooden substructures and to open colonies
to attack from natural enemies such as ants.
Ventilate crawl spaces and install a moisture barrier. Remove infested wood and
tree stumps and do not store fire wood or lumber
on the ground next to your home. Water from downspouts and gutters should
divert water away from the structure. To rid your home
of Formosan Termites,
To
rid your home of Formosan Termites We suggest:
Bora Care
Termidor SC
CB D-Foam See All Our Termite Products
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Subterranean Termites
Family:Rhinotermitidae

Color: creamy brown
Legs: 6
Shape: long, narrow, oval
Size: 1/8”
Antennae: yes
Flight: yes
These termites
develop underground in moist areas. They build mud tubes to gain access to wood
and to protect themselves from
predators. They must have contact with the soil to live underground and to
survive.
Habitat: These
insects disperse throughout the soil building underground tunnels hundreds of
feet to reach feeding sites.
The workers,
soldiers, and reproductives are the three forms found in a termite colony.
A colony can contain hundreds of thousands of individual termites.
However, the forms are distinct from one another by appearance and their
function within the colony.
The workers forge for food and water. Also, they construct shelter tubes, care
for the eggs and young.
The Soldier's primary function is to defend the colony and the reproductives
produce new offspring.
For an effective
termite killer, let Pestmall provide you the supplies the professionals use.
Typical homeowner's
insurance doesn't cover the threat of termites. Ironically, most homes are
protected against the threat
of fire and storms, but not the damage caused by termites.
A termite colony works 24 hours a day. "Worker" termites forage for
food to bring to the colony through mud tunnels.
Termites can travel up to 130 feet from their colony in search of food, leaving
a "trail" for others to follow.
Termites only need a crack 1/64" in the slab floor to gain
entrance into your home.
Today's termite materials break down over time. Placement of treatment is now a
crucial factor in complete protection.
Termites eat wood from the inside out, causing the wood appear normal until it
is almost completely destroyed.
Health Risks
: Subterranean termites are not known to impose any health risk.
Property Damage:
These insects can be detected when termites swarm. mud tubes and wood damage.
Seeing swarming termites typically means that a large colony is present and the
adult reproductives are looking
to pair, forming a new colony. These termites construct mud tubes to protect
themselves from drying and from enemies, such as ants.
They do not create wood particles or powder. To detect an active infestation,
mud tubes should be scraped away and then monitored
to determine if the tubes are repaired or rebuilt.
Prevention :To
prevent infestation, eliminate moisture and food
sources such as
wood and paper.
Destroy mud tubes to interrupt access to wooden substructures.
To rid your home of
Subterranean Termites, we suggest:
Bora
Care
Termidor
SC CB
D-Foam Baiting
System
See
All Our Termite Products
TOP
Mole

Moles are members of the family
(Talpidae) of mammals in the order Insectivora that live underground, burrowing
holes. Some species are aquatic or semi-aquatic. They have cylindrical bodies
covered in fur with small or covered eyes; the ears are generally not visible.
They feed on small invertebrate animals living under ground. Moles can be found
in North America, Europe and Asia.There are about 30 species of moles worldwide,
with North America being home to seven. These moles are widespread in the United
States and parts of South-western and Eastern Canada. Often confused with those
of gophers and ground-squirrels (rodents), the mounds and meandering tunnel
ridges made by these animals in their constant search for food are familiar
sites to many North Americans. However, few people have more than vague ideas
concerning the nature of the creatures that inhabit them. Relatively speaking,
little is known scientifically of these fossorial mammals. In fact, they are
among the least understood components of the North American fauna.
Most
moles, as commonly recognized and known to the general public, are solitary
animals that spend most of their life underground. Notable exceptions are the
desmans which are aquatic, the star-nosed mole which is semi-aquatic, and the
diminutive shrew-moles that are active foragers both underground and on the
surface. Regardless of habit, all species construct two basic types of tunnel:
deep, more permanent tunnels, and shallow surface runways. Differences in the
extent and nature of these tunnels occur between most species. However, all mole
species prefer moist soils where burrowing is easy.
The population demography and home range sizes of moles is
poorly known. However, data suggest that the home ranges of moles may be
substantially larger than those of other fossorial mammals.
The food habits of moles have received more attention than many
aspects of their biology. The diet is highly variable among species, but in
general earthworms, insects, and other invertebrates compose the majority of the
diet. However, vegetation is known to comprise a small portion of the diet in
most species. Presumably due to the enormous costs of excavating their numerous
tunnel galleries, most moles are reported to have a voracious appetite. In fact,
one star-nosed mole was noted to consume 1850 earthworms, three mice, one frog
and two large grubs in 14 days!
Star Nosed
Mole
Most extensive distribution of any North American mole, and
occurs substantially farther north than other species. Broadly distributed from
the Atlantic region, including Cape Breton Island, in the east to eastern
Manitoba in the west (an isolated population may occur in Riding Mountain
National Park, Manitoba). In the United States this mole is found all along the
Atlantic coast to extreme northern Florida, and among the Appalachian Mountains
to eastern Tennessee and western South Carolina.
Hairy-tailed mole

In Canada, this mole ranges from the Agawa Bay region of
eastern Lake Superior, Ontario, across southern Quebec, and possibly into New
Brunswick. In the United States, the hairy-tailed mole can be found south into
Conneticut, and along the Appalachian Mountains into northeastern Tennessee and
western North Carolina. From here, the species occurs north through central Ohio
to the southwestern tip of Lake Ontario.
Eastern mole
Largest range of any North American mole,
occuring throughout much of the United States where soils are favorable. Ranges
from northern Mexico to southeastern South Dakota in the west. East into
Minnesota, Wisconsin, and south of the Great Lakes in Michigan, and into extreme
southwestern Ontario. Found south through Ohio into Kentucky, then northeastern
into Massachusetts and much of southern New England, and then south the the
southernmost tip of Florida.
American shrew-mole
Restricted to western regions of North America
from Santa Cruz County, California, and north through western Oregon and
Washington. An isolated population occurs on Destruction Island, Washington. In
Canada, shrew-moles are restricted to southwestern British Columbia, and were
recently reported to occur as far north as the Squamish region.
Coast mole
The coast mole occurs from the Fraser Delta
region of southwestern British Columbia, south through the western portions of
Washington and Oregon to coastal regions of northwestern California. It is also
known to occur in parts of eastern Washington and Oregon and in one area of
extreme west-central Idaho.
Townsend's mole
More restricted in distribution than the coast
mole, Townsend's mole is typically a lowland species that occurs from extreme
northwestern California in the south, and upwards along the coastal regions of
Oregon and Washington. The extreme northern range of the species barely places
it into the southernmost reaches of southwestern British Columbia, where it is
protected.
Broad-footed mole
The southernmost distributed of the
western North American moles, the broad-footed mole occurs from southern Oregon,
south along the Pacific coastal regions to the San Pedro Martir Mountains in
Baja California. Its range also extends throughout much of northern California
east into western Nevada, then south in California east of the Central
Valley.
Victor mole trap
Talpirid mole bait
Dr T's Whole Control repellent
Giant destroyer ( gas bomb )
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Squirrel

Squirrel is the
common name for rodents of the family Sciuridae (from Greek skia "shadow" and
oura "tail"; "tail that casts a shadow"). In everyday speech in the
English-speaking world, it usually refers to members of the genera Sciurus and
Tamiasciurus. These typical members of the family are tree squirrels with large
bushy tails, and are indigenous to Europe, Asia and the Americas. Similar genera
are found in Africa. However, the Sciuridae also include flying squirrels, and
ground squirrels such as the chipmunks, prairie dogs, and woodchucks. The
unrelated family Anomaluridae also have "squirrel" in their common name, though
they are usually referred to as "scaly-tailed flying squirrels". One
well-known trait of some species of squirrel is the gathering and storing of
nuts for the winter. These squirrels are scatter-hoarders; they will gather
juicy nuts and store them in any accessible hiding place, usually by burying
them. Recent research shows that they have rather limited memories, and use
spatial clues to remember the locations of these caches (e.g., one squirrel may
prefer to store nuts on the north side of trees) [citation needed]. Another
characteristic trait of several types of squirrels, especially ground squirrels,
is their tendency to rise on their hind legs and curl their paws flat against
their chests when they sense any kind of danger. They will then survey their
surrounding territories. If they feel that they are in peril, they will often
send the warning call, a loud screeching sound, to alert other
squirrels.
Unlike rabbits or deer,
squirrels cannot digest cellulose, and must rely on foods rich in protein,
carbohydrates, and fat. Early spring is the hardest time of year for squirrels,
as buried nuts begin to sprout and are no longer available, but new food sources
have not become available yet. During these times squirrels rely heavily on the
buds of trees, in particular, those of the Silver Maple. Despite popular
impression, squirrels are actually omnivores; as well as eating a wide variety
of plant food, including nuts, seeds, fruits, fungi (for example, mushrooms),
and green vegetation, they also eat insects, eggs, and even small birds, smaller
mammals, frogs, and carrion. It is also a common occurrence that these foods
replace nuts in some of the tropics.
Squirrels are generally clever
and persistent animals; in residential neighborhoods they are notorious for
eating out of bird feeders, digging in potted plants either to bury or recover
seeds, and for setting up house in sheltered areas including attics. While many
companies sell bird feeders which are supposedly “squirrel-proof”, very few—if
any—of them really are.
A fox squirrel eating a
nutSquirrels are sometimes also pests because they chew on various edible and
inedible objects; the habit helps keep the squirrel's teeth sharp and also wears
them down (rodents' teeth grow continuously). Homeowners in areas with a heavy
squirrel population must keep attics and basements carefully sealed to prevent
property damage caused by nesting squirrels. Some homeowners resort to more
humane ways of dealing with this, such as collecting and planting fur from pets
(such as domestic cats and dogs) in attics. This fur will indicate to nesting
squirrels that a potential predator roams and will encourage evacuation. Fake
owls and scarecrows are generally ignored by the animals, and the best way to
prevent chewing on an object is to coat it with something to make it
undesirable: for instance a soft cloth or chili pepper paste or powder. Squirrel
trapping is also practiced to remove them from residential
areas.
Squirrels can be trained to be
hand-fed. Because they are able to cache surplus food, they will take as much
food as you put out. If a person starts to feed one, that squirrel will come
back day after day to get its food. Squirrels living in parks and campuses in
cities have learned long ago that humans are typically a ready source of food.
Hand feeding is not recommended, however, because squirrels may carry plague or
other animal-borne diseases. Even if they do not carry disease, they often have
a hard time telling fingertips from food, and bites are
painful.
Squirrels are often the cause
of electricity outages. The animals will enter transformers or capacitors
looking for food. The squirrels are then electrocuted and cause a power surge
that shorts equipment. Squirrels have brought down the high-tech NASDAQ stock
market twice, and were responsible for a spate of power outages at the
University of Alabama [1]. They will often chew on tree branches to sharpen
their teeth, but cannot tell the difference between a tree branch and a live
power line. Rubber plates are sometimes used to prevent access to these
facilities.
Urban squirrels have learned
to get a great deal of food from generous humans. One of the more common, and
inexpensive foods fed to squirrels is peanuts. Recent studies however have shown
that raw peanuts contain a trypsin inhibitor that prevents the absorption of
protein in the intestine. Dr. James K. Kieswetter of Eastern Washington
University suggests using roasted peanuts instead.[2] However, wildlife
rehabilitators in the field have noted that neither raw and roasted peanuts or
sunflower seeds are good for squirrels, as they are deficient in a number of
nutrients needed. This type of deficiency has been found to cause Metabolic Bone
Disease, a somewhat common ailement found in malnourished squirrels.[3]
[4]
Proper sanitation and property maintenance will
prevent most problems. Most urban squirrels owe their existence to humans. We
supply both food, and shelter without thinking. A house is just another funny
looking tree to the squirrel. Why should the squirrel spend days cutting and
hauling twigs up a tree to build a nest, when there is a perfectly good attic to
sleep in. Its warm, out of the weather, and they don't have to worry about
predators coming in. Just add a few leaves, a bit of fluff, and call it home.
Now what's for dinner? A dish of pet food left unattended, an open garbage
can, or a full bird feeder is a free meal to a hungry squirrel. Their common
sense says "this sure beats foraging" and it's a lot easier. Wow...these humans
are really great! If you read this far, then you probably have some of these problems already.
So, remove the food supply. If it is a bird feeder, move it twenty or more feet
from the house. Close or cover garbage cans, and if possible make them
inaccessible. If you have a barbecue near the house, keep it clean and covered.
Squirrels have been know to eat the drippings and sometimes build a nest if they
can get inside. It doesn't take very long, sometimes just hours.
Maybe the squirrels are digging in your garden, or flower pots. While you
can't stop a squirrel from digging, you can discourage it. Use hardware cloth, a
heavy metal screening with a half inch square grid, to place in the flower pot.
Cut it to fit around the stem of the plant, and extend it to the edges of the
pot. Place it just below the soil. Put some small rocks near the edge to hold
it in place. This same approach can be used in a small garden.
If the squirrels are eating your fruit as it ripens, about the only way to
stop them is to cage the entire plant. Most times this is not practical, and
allowing them to have a little may be a small price to pay. I know they can be
wasteful, try to accept it as food tasting.
Other devices, such as high frequency sound emitters and animal scents may be
effective for a short period of time. Once the squirrel gets use to them, and
they will. They become ineffective, and you're out a lot of money.
The use of "Squirrel Away" or "Hot Pepper Spray" are also ineffective as
deterrents. They can actually do harm to both squirrels, and other animals,
especially when these products get into their eyes. Then how do you deal with a
blind squirrel?
The use of "moth balls" as a deterrent does work. But again, only
temporarily. A determined squirrel will get used to the smell, or simply push
the "smelly stuff" out of its way. So if you do try this method, wrap them in a
piece of metal screening to form a bag. Then tie the bag to a solid object, make
it as difficult as possible for the squirrel to move. You will have to replace
the contents every few days for it to be truly effective.
Another problem area can be exposed wires or rubber hose's. Most common are
those on gas grills, and stored motor vehicles. But, low voltage lighting can be
a tempting target for squirrels. What the most squirrels are trying to do, is
clean and sharpen their teeth. They do this by biting through some material,
(normally wood) then they pull their head back so the fibers slide between the
teeth. I guess you could call it the squirrel version of dental floss. Most
squirrels stick with small tree branches, but some have found the plastic coated
wire or rubber hose does a much better job. The only way to stop this problem is
to trap and relocate the offending squirrel. Once the squirrel is removed, the
problem should end.
Once a squirrel has chewed its way into an attic or crawl space, again the
only practical way to remove it is by trapping (see section below). Of course
repairs should be made immediately to close the entrance hole. It is also
important to cut off the access route to the attic or crawl space. This may
require trimming tree branches that overhang the roof. Remove firewood that may
be stacked against the building. Fill cracks in foundation walls. Even a one
inch hole or crack can make a suitable entrance hole for a determined squirrel.
When patching wood, use metal plates or flashing where ever possible. On
foundations walls use concrete. Avoid plastic or PVC vents when ever possible.
If your only alternative is to trap, and remove an unwanted squirrel, you
should first check with your local government agency. Your City, County, or
State may require you to obtain a permit. There may be certain circumstances
when a professional trapper is needed to capture and relocate the animal. A
phone call can save you a lot of trouble.
The other very important part of trapping concerns the time of year. The
female squirrel will give birth to a litter of three or four, in the early
spring and possibly again in the fall. If you trap and relocate the mother
squirrel, you will surely kill her babies since they can not leave the nest on
their own. While this alone would be heart breaking, consider what will become
of those baby squirrels. They can cause quite a smell. Please give this some
careful thought before you proceed. If you're not sure, please ask for help.
That's what we're here for.
If you are allowed to trap, your next step will be to find a suitable trap.
Most large sporting goods stores will have a selection of live animal traps to
choose from. Live traps sell for about $30, for a small "five by five by
eighteen inch Havahart Trap" and can go up to $90 for larger sizes. Tomahawk
Live trap also carries a complete line of traps and supplies.
You can also rent traps from some Rental Service Stores. One store in
Minnesota rents the small Havahart 1025 trap for $15 per day.
Be sure to find one that is the proper size for the squirrel you wish to
trap. Too small of a trap may not completely enclose the squirrel and one too
large may not be sensitive enough for a one pound squirrel.
Traps should come with instructions to bait and set them, be sure you under-
stand and follow the directions. Peanut butter (Skippy crunchy) is considered
the best bait for a squirrel. Placing a spoonful on the trip lever usually does
the trick.
Your first step is to do a little detective work. Find the path that the
squirrel is using to your attic, crawl space or where ever it should not be. To
find this path, you must first observe your squirrel's routine. Normally, a
squirrel will leave the nest at dawn or shortly after in search of food. This
would be the best time to watch and wait. Find a place where you can view your
house and the entrance hole. Be very still, and watch how it gets to or from the
house. E.g. climbing, jumping or both. Once you discover this path, you should
place the trap accordingly. Always set the trap on a stable surface, such as the
ground, on a porch or deck. Never hang the trap!
If you have the time, leave the trap opened and without bait for several
days, so the squirrel will accept it as part of the landscape. You should also
consider what if any other animals might be in the area of the trap. Since a
cat, dog, or even a bird may be tempted into your trap.
You must be able to see or hear the trap operate, so it would be best to set
it only when you have the time to watch or listen for it to operate. Once a
squirrel is trapped it must be removed as quickly as possible to prevent stress
to the animal. Be sure you are wearing heavy work gloves while handling the
trap. Be prepared to listen to a lot of complaining. This squirrel is going to
voice its displeasure non-stop!
You must relocate the squirrel at least a three miles from your location,
even further if you are in a heavily wooded area. An ideal location would have a
natural barrier, such as a river or lake. If you're moving the squirrel within
an urban area, try to place it across several highways or other busy streets.
You should give some thought to where you are going to relocate the squirrel
before capture. A place where it can find food, water and shelter would be in
your best interest. Don't give this squirrel a reason to return!
It may be necessary to repeat this process if more than one squirrel is
involved. Please remember that if there are babies in the nest, they can "not"
be trapped and must be removed by hand.
Then be sure to correct the problem that led to the squirrel moving in, as
quickly as possible. Be sure to wash the entrance area, with a strong solution
of ammonia and water, or a household cleaner to remove any scent the squirrel's
may have left.
If you have problems, concerns, or questions about live trapping. Many local
government agencies have people that are knowledgeable in this area and may be
able to offer you additional advice.
If you do not have the time or are not sure you can accomplish this task.
There are professional animal or pest control companies that can remove
squirrels for you. If you consider the time and effort involved, it may be best
to contact a local company for an estimate. Generally, you can expect to pay
between one and two hundred dollars for this service.
Rid a criddle repellent
Haveahart live trap
Rat
& Squirrel Lure - Walnut
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Snakes
Poisonous snakes
Of the many kinds of snakes found in the United States, only the
following are harmful: rattlesnakes, copperheads, cottonmouths, coral snakes,
and sea snakes. The latter group lives only in the oceans. All poisonous snakes,
except coral snakes and sea snakes, belong in a group called pit vipers. There
are three ways to distinguish between pit vipers and nonpoisonous snakes in the
United States:
(1) All pit vipers have a deep pit on each side of the head,
midway between the eye and the nostril. Nonpoisonous snakes do not have these
pits.
(2) On the underside of the tail of pit vipers, scales go all
the way across in one row (except on the very tip of the tail, which may have
two rows in some cases). On the underside of the tail of all nonpoisonous
snakes, scales are in two rows all the way from the vent of the snake to the tip
of the tail. The shed skin of a snake shows the same characteristics.
(3) The pupil of pit vipers is vertically elliptical
(egg-shaped). In very bright light, the pupil may be almost a vertical line, due
to extreme contraction to shut out light. The pupil of nonpoisonous snakes is
perfectly round.
The poisonous coral snake is ringed with
red, yellow, and black, with red and yellow rings touching.
Nonpoisonous mimics of the coral snake (such as the scarlet
king snake) have red and yellow rings, separated by black rings. A helpful
saying to memorize is: “Red on yellow, kill a fellow; red on black, friend of
Jack.”
Some species of nonpoisonous snakes occur throughout several
states, but the majority have only limited ranges.
Snakes are not very
mobile, and even though some are fairly adaptable, most have specific habitat
requirements. Some live underground (these are mostly small in size), and some
have eyes shielded by scales of the head. Others, such as green snakes, live
primarily in trees. One group spends its entire life in the oceans. In general,
snakes like cool, damp, dark areas where they can find food. The following are
areas around the home that seem to be attractive to snakes: firewood stacked
directly on the ground; old lumber piles; junk piles; flower beds with heavy
mulch; gardens; unkempt basements; shrubbery growing against foundations; barn
lofts— especially where stored feed attracts rodents; attics in houses where
there is a rodent or bat problem; stream banks; pond banks where there are
boards, innertubes, tires, planks, and other items lying on the bank; unmowed
lawns; and abandoned lots and fields.
All snakes are predators, and the
different species eat many different kinds of food. Rat snakes eat primarily
rodents (such as rats, mice, and chipmunks), bird eggs, and baby birds. King
snakes eat other snakes, as well as rodents, young birds, and bird eggs. Some
snakes, such as green snakes, eat primarily insects. Some small snakes, such as
earth snakes and worm snakes, eat earthworms, slugs, and salamanders. Water
snakes eat primarily frogs, fish, and tadpoles.
Snakes are specialized animals, having elongated bodies and no
legs. They have no ears, externally or internally, and no eyelids, except for a
protective window beneath which the eye moves. The organs of the body are
elongated. Snakes have a long, forked tongue, which helps them smell. Gaseous
particles from odors are picked up by the tongue and inserted into the two-holed
organ, called the Jacobson’s Organ, at the roof of the mouth.
The two halves of the lower jaw are not fused, but are connected
by a ligament to each other. They are also loosely connected so the snake can
swallow food much larger than its head. Because snakes are cold-blooded and not
very active, one meal may last them several weeks. Also, because they are
cold-blooded, they may hibernate during cold weather months or aestivate during
hot summer months when the climate is severe. In either case, they consume
little or no food during these times. Some snakes lay eggs, some hatch their
eggs inside the body, and some give live birth. The young of copperheads,
rattlesnakes, and cottonmouths are born alive.
Nonpoisonous snakes are harmless to humans. In most cases, a
snake will crawl away when approached if it feels it can reach cover safely. No
snakes charge or attack people, with the exception of the racers, which
occasionally bluff by advancing toward an intruder. Racers will retreat rapidly,
however, if challenged. Snakes react only when cornered. Different species react
in different ways, playing dead by turning over on the back, hissing, opening
the mouth in a menacing manner, coiling, and striking and biting if
necessary.
Nonpoisonous snakes have two rows of scales between the vent and
the tip of the tail, while poisonous snakes have only one row.
A nonpoisonous snake bite has no venom and can do no more harm
than frighten the victim. After being bitten several thousand times by
nonpoisonous snakes, the author and his students have never suffered any adverse
reaction, and no treatment was ever used. The only harm nonpoisonous snakes can
cause is frightening people who are not familiar with them. A bite from a
poisonous snake, however, causes an almost immediate reaction—swelling, tissue
turning a dark blue-black, a tingling sensation, and nausea. If none of these is
observed or felt, the bite was from a nonpoisonous snake. Also, bites from one
of the pit vipers (copperheads, rattlesnakes, and cottonmouths) will reveal two
fang marks, in addition to teeth marks. All snakes have teeth; only pit vipers
have fangs. North American pit vipers have only two rows of teeth on top and two
on the bottom, whereas nonpoisonous snakes have four on top and four on the
bottom.
As mentioned earlier, nonpoisonous snakes are completely harmless
and cause no damage, except occasionally frightening people. Therefore, no
expense toward control of nonpoisonous snakes is justified. Most methods to
remove snakes are inexpensive, except for the snake-proof fence, which can be
quite expensive.
In most states, snakes are considered non-game wildlife
and are protected by state law unless they are about to cause personal or
property damage. Therefore, snakes should not be indiscriminately killed. Some
species are listed on federal and/or state threatened and endangered species
lists.
Seal all openings (1/4 inch [0.6 cm] and larger) with mortar,
1/8-inch (0.3-cm) hardware cloth, sheet metal, or steel wool. A snake-proof
fence can be used to exclude snakes. Reduce rodent populations. Keep all
vegetation closely mowed; remove bushes, shrubs, rocks, boards, firewood, and
debris lying close to the ground, especially around buildings. Alter all sites
that provide cool, damp, dark habitat for snakes. Several snake repellents
have been promoted, but none are consistently effective. A funnel trap with
drift fences can be used. Nonpoisonous snakes are protected by law in most
states and indiscriminate killing is illegal. Shooting or clubbing is effective,
however, where it is allowed, with permission from the state wildlife agency.
Remove snakes from inside buildings by placing piles of damp burlap bags or
towels in areas where snakes have been seen. After snakes have been attracted,
remove the bags and snake(s) from the building.
Glue boards can be used to capture snakes found inside houses or
other buildings. Once caught, the snake and board can be taken outside. The
snake can be released unharmed by pouring vegetable oil on it (the oil
counteracts the adhesive).
Dr T's Snake away repellent
Snake guard snake trap
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Feral
cats
Feral cats are the 'wild' offspring
of domestic cats and are primarily the result of pet owners' abandonment
or failure to spay and neuter their animals, allowing them to breed
uncontrolled. Feral cat 'colonies' can be found behind shopping areas or
businesses, in alleys, parks, abandoned buildings, and rural areas. They are
elusive and do not trust humans.
Many people assume their animals will survive when they move
away and leave them behind. Contrary to popular belief, domestic
animals do not automatically return to their "natural" instincts and
cannot fend for themselves! Already, U.S. animal shelters are
forced to kill an estimated 15 million homeless cats and dogs annually. The
alternative to humane euthanasia for almost every stray is a violent end or
slow, painful death. Many "throwaways" die mercilessly outdoors from starvation,
disease, abuse --- or as food to a predator.
To control Feral cat we recommend
Havhart 1081 live trap Dog & Cat
Repeller
More information Check local animal control Unit
or
FCCC
(Feral Cat Caretakers' Coalition )
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Pocket gophers

Pocket gophers (Thomomys spp.) are
burrowing rodents that get their name from the fur-lined external cheek pouches,
or pockets, that they use for carrying food and nesting materials. They are well
equipped for a digging, tunneling lifestyle with powerfully built forequarters,
large-clawed front paws, fine short fur that doesn't cake in wet soils, small
eyes and small external ears, and highly sensitive facial whiskers to assist
movements in the dark. An unusual adaptation is the gopher's lips, which can be
closed behind the four large incisor teeth to keep dirt out of its mouth when it
is using its teeth for digging.
Five species of
pocket gophers are found in California, with Botta's pocket gopher (Thomomys
bottae) being most widespread. Depending on the species, they may range in
length from 6 to 10 inches. Although they are sometimes seen feeding at the edge
of an open burrow, pushing dirt out of a burrow, or moving to a new area,
gophers for the most part remain underground in the burrow system.
Mounds of fresh soil are the best sign of gopher presence.
Mounds are formed as the gopher digs its tunnel and pushes the loose dirt to the
surface. Typically mounds are crescent- or horseshoe-shaped when viewed from
above. The hole, which is off to one side of the mound, is usually plugged. Mole
mounds are sometimes mistaken for gopher mounds. Mole mounds, however, appear
circular and have a plug in the middle that may not be distinct; in profile they
are volcano-shaped. Unlike gophers, moles commonly burrow just beneath the
surface, leaving a raised ridge to mark their path.
One gopher may create several mounds in a day. In nonirrigated
areas, mound building is most pronounced during spring or fall when the soil is
moist and easy to dig. In irrigated areas such as lawns, flower beds, and
gardens, digging conditions are usually optimal year round and mounds can appear
at any time. In snowy regions, gophers create burrows in the snow, resulting in
long, earthen cores on the surface when the snow melts
Pocket gophers live in a burrow system that can cover an area of 200
to 2,000 square feet. The burrows are about 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 inches in diameter;
feeding burrows are usually 6 to 12 inches below ground, whereas the nest and
food storage chamber may be as deep as 6 feet. Gophers seal the openings to the
burrow system with earthen plugs. Short, sloping lateral tunnels connect the
main burrow system to the surface and are created during construction of the
main tunnel for pushing dirt to the surface.
Gophers do not hibernate and are active year-round, although
fresh mounding may not be seen. They also can be active at all hours of the day.
Gophers usually live alone within their burrow system, except for females with
young or when breeding, and may occur in densities of up to 16 to 20 per acre.
Gophers reach sexual maturity at about 1 year of age and can
live up to 3 years. Females produce one to three litters per year. In
nonirrigated areas, breeding usually occurs in late winter and early spring,
resulting in one litter per year, whereas in irrigated sites, up to three
litters per year may be produced. Litters usually average five to six young.
Pocket gophers are herbivorous, feeding on a wide variety of
vegetation, but generally preferring herbaceous plants, shrubs, and trees.
Gophers use their sense of smell to locate food. Most commonly they feed on
roots and fleshy portions of plants they encounter while digging. However,
sometimes they feed aboveground, venturing only a body length or so from their
tunnel opening. Burrow openings used in this manner are called "feed holes."
They are identified by the absence of a dirt mound and a circular band of
clipped vegetation around the hole. Gophers will also pull entire plants into
their tunnel from below. In snow-covered regions gophers may feed on bark
several feet up a tree by burrowing through the snow.
Pocket gophers often invade yards and gardens, and feed on many
garden crops, ornamental plants, vines, shrubs, and trees. A single gopher
moving down a garden row can inflict considerable damage in a very short time.
Gophers also gnaw and damage plastic water lines and lawn sprinkler systems.
Their tunnels can divert and carry off irrigation water and lead to soil
erosion. Mounds on lawns interfere with mowing equipment and ruin the aesthetics
of well-kept turfgrass.
Pocket gophers are classified
as nongame mammals by the California Fish and Game Code. This means that if they
are found to be injuring growing crops or other property, including garden and
landscape plants, they may be controlled at any time and in any legal manner by
the owner or tenant of the premises.
To successfully
control gophers, the sooner you detect their presence and take control measures,
the better. Most people control gophers in lawns, gardens, or small orchards by
trapping and/or by using poison baits.
Successful
trapping or baiting depends on accurately locating the gopher's main burrow. To
locate the burrow, you need to use a gopher probe. Probes are commercially
available or can be constructed from a pipe and metal rod. An enlarged tip that
is wider than the shaft of the probe is an important design feature that
increases the ease of locating burrows. Probes made from dowels or sticks may
work in soft soil, but are difficult to use in hard or dry soils.
First, locate areas of recent gopher activity based on fresh
mounds with dark, moist soil. Fresh mounds that are visible aboveground are the
plugged openings of lateral tunnels. The main burrow can be found by probing
about 8 to 12 inches from the plug side of the mound; it is usually located 6 to
12 inches deep. When the probe penetrates the gopher's burrow, there will be a
sudden, noticeable drop of about 2 inches. You may have to probe repeatedly to
locate the gopher's main burrow, but your skill will improve with experience.
Because lateral tunnels may not be revisited by the gopher, trapping and baiting
in them is not as successful as in the main burrow.
Trapping is a safe and effective method to control pocket gophers.
Several types and brands of gopher traps are available. The most commonly used
is a two-pronged pincher trap, such as the Macabee trap, which is triggered when
the gopher pushes against a flat vertical pan. Another popular trap is the
choker-style box trap.
To set traps, locate the main tunnel with a probe, as previously
described. Use a shovel or garden trowel to open the tunnel wide enough to set
traps in pairs facing opposite directions. By placing traps with their openings
facing opposite directions, a gopher coming from either end of the burrow can be
intercepted. The box trap is easier to use if you've never set gopher traps
before, but setting it requires more excavation than if you are using the
Macabee trap, an important consideration in lawns and some gardens. Box traps
are especially useful when the diameter of the gopher's main burrow is small
(less than 3 inches) because to use the Macabee-type wire traps, small burrows
must be enlarged to accommodate them.
It is not necessary to bait a gopher trap, although some claim
baiting gives better results. Lettuce, carrots, apples, or alfalfa greens can be
used as bait. Place the bait at the back of a box trap behind the wire trigger
or behind the flat pan of a Macabee-type trap. Wire your traps to stakes so they
can be easily retrieved from the burrow. After setting the traps, exclude light
from the burrow by covering the opening with dirt clods, sod, cardboard, or some
other material. Fine soil can be sifted around the edges to ensure a light-tight
seal. If too much light enters, the gopher may plug the burrow with soil,
filling the traps and making them ineffective. Check traps often and reset them
when necessary. If a gopher is not caught within 3 days, reset the traps in a
different location.
The key to an effective toxic baiting program is bait placement.
Always place pocket gopher bait in the main underground tunnel, not the lateral
tunnels. After locating the main gopher burrow with a probe, enlarge the opening
by rotating the probe or inserting a larger rod or stick. Following label
directions, place the bait carefully in the opening using a spoon or other
suitable implement that is used only for that purpose, taking care not to spill
any on the ground surface. A funnel is useful for preventing spillage.
Strychnine-treated grain bait is the most common type used for
pocket gopher control. This bait generally contains 0.5% strychnine and is
lethal with a single feeding. Baits containing anticoagulants are also
available. When using anticoagulant baits, a large amount of bait (about 10
times the amount needed when using strychnine baits) is required so that it is
available for multiple feedings. Although generally less effective than
strychnine baits, anticoagulant baits are preferred for use in areas where
children and pets may be present. When using either type of bait, be sure to
follow all label directions and precautions.
After placing the bait in the main burrow, close the probe hole
with sod, rocks, or some other material to exclude light and prevent dirt from
falling on the bait. Several bait placements within a burrow system will
increase success. Tamp down existing mounds so you can distinguish new activity.
If new mounds appear for more than 2 days after strychnine baiting or 7 to 10
days after anticoagulant baits have been used, you will need to rebait or try
trapping.
If a large area is infested with gophers, a hand-held bait
applicator will speed treatment. Bait applicators are a combination probe and
bait reservoir. Once a burrow is located using the probe, a trigger releases a
measured amount of bait into the tunnel. Generally, strychnine bait is used with
such a bait applicator because the applicator dispenses only a small quantity of
bait at a time.
Underground fencing might be
justified for valuable ornamental shrubs or landscape trees. To protect existing
plantings, bury hardware cloth or 3/4-inch mesh poultry wire 2 feet deep and
extended at least 1 foot aboveground to deter gophers moving overland. This
method is less than perfect, however, because gophers may burrow below the wire;
also, the wire may restrict and damage root growth of trees. Small areas such as
flower beds may be protected by complete underground screening of sides and
bottoms. When constructing raised vegetable or flower beds, underlay the soil
with wire to exclude gophers. Wire baskets to protect individual plants can be
made at home or are commercially available and should be installed at the time
of planting. If you use wire, use light-gauge wire for shrubs and trees that
will need protection only while young. Leave enough room to allow for the roots
to grow. Galvanized wire provides the longest lasting protection.
Six to 8 inches of coarse gravel 1 inch or more in diameter
around underground sprinkler lines or utility cables may deter
gophers.
Because no population will increase indefinitely, one
alternative to a gopher problem is to do nothing, letting the population limit
itself. Experience has shown, however, that by the time gopher populations level
off naturally, much damage has already been done around homes and
gardens.
Predators, including owls, snakes, cats, dogs, and coyotes, eat
pocket gophers. Predators rarely, however, remove every prey animal, but instead
move on to hunt at more profitable locations. In addition, gophers have defenses
against predators. For example, they can escape snakes in their burrows by
rapidly pushing up an earthen plug to block the snake's advance.
The idea of attracting barn owls to an area for gopher control
by installing nest boxes has been explored. Although barn owls prey on gophers,
their habit of hunting over large areas, often far from their nest boxes, and
their tendency to hunt areas with abundant prey, make them unreliable for gopher
control. When a single gopher, which is capable of causing damage rapidly,
invades a yard or garden, a gardener cannot afford to wait for an owl to arrive.
Effective action, usually trapping or baiting, must be taken
immediately.
Reduction of gopher food sources using
either chemical or mechanical methods may decrease immigration of gophers. If
feasible, remove weedy areas adjacent to yards and gardens to create a buffer
strip of unsuitable habitat.
Pocket gophers can
easily withstand normal garden or home landscape irrigation, but flooding can
sometimes be used to force them from their burrows where they can be dispatched
with a shovel or caught by a dog. Fumigation with smoke or gas cartridges is
usually not effective because gophers quickly seal off their burrow when they
detect smoke or gas. But if you are persistent with and use repeated treatments,
some success may be achieved.
No repellents currently available will successfully protect
gardens or other plantings from pocket gophers. Plants such as gopher purge
(Euphorbia lathyrus), castor bean (Ricinus communis), and garlic have been
suggested as repellents but these claims have not been substantiated by
research. Although there are many frightening devices commercially available to
use on pocket gophers (vibrating stakes, ultrasonic devices, wind-powered
pinwheels, etc.), pocket gophers do not frighten easily, probably because of
their repeated exposure to noise and vibrations from sprinklers, lawnmowers,
vehicles, and people moving about. Consequently, frightening devices have not
proven to be effective. Another ineffective control method is placing chewing
gum or laxatives in burrows in hopes of killing gophers
Once pocket gophers have been controlled, monitor the area on a
regular basis for reinfestation of the land. Level all existing mounds after the
control program and clean away weeds and garden debris so fresh mounds can be
seen easily. It is important to check regularly for reinfestation because pocket
gophers may move in from other areas and damage can reoccur within a short time.
If your property borders wildlands, vacant lots, or other areas that serve as a
source of gophers, you can expect gophers to reinvade regularly. Be prepared to
take immediate control action when they do; it is easier, cheaper, and less
time-consuming to control one or two gophers than to wait until the population
builds up to the point where the gophers are causing excessive damage.
Havahart Live Trap
The Giant Destroyer ( gas bomb )
Electric Fence
TOP
Ground Squirrel
Ground squirrels are easily
identified as they forage aboveground near their burrows. The ground squirrel's
body measures 9 to 11 inches and its semi-bushy tail adds another 5 to 9 inches
in length. The fur is brownish gray and speckled with off-white along the back;
the sides of the head and shoulders are light gray to whitish. One subspecies
that occupies most of northern California has a dark, triangular-shaped patch on
its back between the shoulders; this patch is missing from other species. While
ground squirrels are similar in appearance to tree squirrels and may climb
trees, when frightened they will always retreat to a burrow, whereas tree
squirrels will climb a tree or tall structure and never use a burrow. Ground
squirrels live in a wide variety of natural habitats but usually avoid thick
chaparral, dense woods, and wet areas. Populations may be particularly high in
grazed rangelands and in areas disturbed by humans such as road or ditchbanks,
fence rows, around buildings, and in or bordering many crops.
California Ground Squirrel

Gray, light brown and dusky fur are mixed to give the California Ground Squirrel's upperparts a mottled
appearance. A band of slightly darker fur, flecked with light gray, extends from
the head over the middle of the back. Gray fur forms a cape over the sides of
the head and shoulders. This gray cape may have a protective function, breaking
up the animal's body outline and making it more difficult for a predator to
spot. Light buff or grayish yellow fur covers the undersides.
Whitish fur rings the eyes and perhaps protects the squirrel's
eyes from too intense sunlight. Black fur edges the outer rims of the ears. The
tail, five to seven inches long and more than half the length of the head and
body, is covered with mixed yellowish gray and black hairs and is lighter on the
underside. Generally, California Ground Squirrels measure between sixteen and
nineteen inches total length.
From central Washington through western Oregon, California and
into the northern part of Baja California, this squirrel is found in plains,
small meadows, tree-covered hillsides, rocky outcrops and granite taluses. The
northern extent of its range was once bounded by the Columbia River, but the
California Ground Squirrel has crossed the river into south-central
Washington. California Ground Squirrels live in
burrows. Hillsides or low earth banks are preferred sites because the burrows
can be excavated horizontally, although many burrows are dug down vertically
several feet to assure protection. Burrows, which are about four or five inches
in diameter, may vary in length from five feet to more than thirty-five feet and
may be used by many generations of ground squirrels. Some burrows house single
squirrel occupants, while others may be colonial homes for several squirrels.
Short burrows many have a single opening, but longer branched burrows often have
two or more openings. In studying California Ground Squirrels, one group of
scientists found a squirrel home with six females and five males which consisted
of tunnels totaling 741 feet in length and had thrity-three openings. The
deepest tunnel was twenty-eight feet below ground. Although most tunnel
excavation work is done in the spring, digging and burrow improvement is a
continuing process.
During the breeding season, from about February to April, and
during the summer months, California Ground Squirrels are above ground for long
periods each day. They often spend their time feeding (they eat a variety of
seeds, fruits, acorns, roots, mushrooms, and even insects such as grasshoppers,
crickets, and caterpillars), sunning, dust-bathing, and grooming. In one of
their favorite sun bathing positions the squirrel lies with its belly on the
ground, elbows on the ground with forearms extended and head raised. They also
like to sit straight up, motionless, with their arms hanging down across their
chest and their paws resting one upon the other. From this position they love to
look about. In fact, their vision is thought to be about equivalent to a
human's.
California Ground Squirrels are ever vigilent and ready to sound
an alarm if danger is perceived. If frightened, a squirrel often makes long
leaps and emits a sharp, metallic alarm cry several times in rapid succession.
The squirrel may pause near its burrow and clink at intervals, or it may drop
down into its tunnel system.
Generally, ground squirrels spend most of their life within a
fairly small area. In fact, most of their time is spent within about 100 feet of
their burrow and rarely does a ground squirrel go beyond a 150-yard radius of
its burrow.
California Ground Squirrels hibernate for several months of the
year. How long they hibernate depends on where they live. In some areas, adult
squirrels may spend as much as eight months dormant in their burrows. Sometime
in the fall or eary winter the squirrels will settle in for the winter. It is
interesting that the males are the first to begin hiberation. Females and young
squirrels may not begin hibernation for over a month later. California Ground
Squirrels go into "true hibernation," that is, unlike a bear which merely enjoys
a long period of sleep, the ground squirrel goes into what might be thought of
as a state of near suspended animation. Their heart rate slows down to as little
as only a tenth of its normal heart rate and their respiration may slow down to
the point where they only take a breath every couple of minutes. Even in this
state, they wake up every four to five days for short periods. During these
times they eat food they stored away in special chambers during the summer
months and they use special "bathroom" chambers before climbing back into their
underground nests. The males are the first to emerge from hibernation, usually
in the early spring.
The breeding season, from February to April, is a busy time for
California Ground Squirrels. Mating chases are common, with males chasing
females until she is ready to accpet one. Females may mate with more than one
male and often mate more than one time. After about a month-long gestation
period, a mother squirrel may give birth from three to as many as fifteen
babies, with from five to six being an average number. The babies remain
underground with the mother. Their eyes open at about five weeks and by about
the eighth week, they are ready to come out of the burrow for the first time. At
first the youngesters will play and feed very near the burrow entrance under the
mother's close and attentive supervision.
California Ground Squirrels may live as long as six years, but
three or four years is probably their average life span in the wild. Captive
ground squirrels have lived for ten years.
Wyoming ground squirrel
The Wyoming ground squirrel
(Spermophilus elegans) is one of six species of ground squirrels found in
Colorado. Formerly called Richardson's ground squirrel, the Wyoming ground
squirrel averages 10 to 15 inches long and weighs 9 to 14 ounces as an adult.
Its fur is generally a brownish smoke-gray, with a dappled pattern of
cinnamon-buff. The underside of the tail is buff.
Wyoming ground squirrels are found in Colorado, southern
Wyoming, western Nebraska and Utah. The species occupies areas from 5,000 feet
to above timberline in the north central and northwestern sections of Colorado.
It prefers open sagebrush, grasslands and subalpine meadows.
Wyoming ground squirrels prefer green foliage, such as grasses,
but also eat forbs and shrubs. When green vegetation becomes scarce, the
squirrels eat dry grasses and seeds. They also eat Insects, including
grasshoppers, crickets and caterpillars, and scavenge eggs from ground-nesting
birds.
Wyoming ground squirrels construct and live in underground
burrows. In brushy country, Wyoming ground squirrel burrows often are identified
by a substantial pile of debris (sticks, rocks, sagebrush leaves) that covers
the area downslope from the burrow entrance. Squirrels stay in their burrows at
night and during the warmest part of summer days. The burrow is the center of a
ground squirrel's activity.
The squirrels enter their burrows in late July or early August
and hibernate underground until the following March or April. Males usually come
above ground one to three weeks before the females. Breeding takes place one to
four days after females emerge from hibernation. The young are born after a
three- to four-week gestation period with two to 10 young per litter. Only one
litter is produced each year. The young are weaned at five weeks and are above
ground foraging by June. Density of Wyoming ground squirrel populations can
range from two ground squirrels per acre before young are born in the spring, to
20 or more animals per acre in early June when juveniles and adults are
active.
Predators include bullsnakes, coyotes, foxes, badgers, weasels
and hawks.
Ground squirrels are hosts for fleas and may act as carriers for
bubonic plague. Plague is transmitted to humans via flea bites. Early symptoms
of plague include swollen and tender lymph nodes, chills and fever. Early
diagnosis and treatment is imperative. When walking through suspected plague
areas, apply an insect repellent to socks and pant cuffs before tucking pants
inside boots.
High concentrations of Wyoming ground squirrels can pose a
serious pest problem. They compete with livestock for forage and can destroy
food Crops. The mounds of dirt that squirrels excavate to build burrows in hay
fields can damage haying equipment and take fields out of production. Burrowing
activity also can damage grasslands, golf courses and lawns.
Several alternatives are available for Wyoming ground squirrel
control. Landowners may use control methods themselves or hire a commercial
firm.
Small, isolated colonies of Wyoming ground squirrels can be
effectively controlled by shooting. Shooting lowers the population by removing
individuals and disrupting their life cycle. However, if there are other
colonies of ground squirrels nearby, individuals from those populations will
migrate into the area where squirrels are being removed. For effective control
of problem ground squirrels, a population must be kept under constant shooting
pressure.
For small populations, wire-mesh cage traps can be set anywhere
that squirrels frequent. Place traps on level ground within a few feet of
burrows or other high-activity areas. Bait for several days with the door wired
open to get squirrels accustomed to visiting the trap and unafraid of it. Wooden
snap-type rat traps and modified pocket gopher traps also can be used.
Bait the traps with rolled oats, peanut butter, fruit such as
apples, or grain, depending on what works best in your area and the time of
year. If corn is used as bait, it should be cracked.
Poison grain bait is the most practical method for controlling
large numbers of Wyoming ground squirrels. Baiting is most effective at two
points during the Wyoming ground squirrels' annual cycle: early spring, or late
June to early July.
In a year of average rainfall, begin poison grain control early
in the spring, about one to two weeks after squirrels emerge from their burrows.
Continue for one month or until vegetation turns green. Early control is
enhanced by cold weather and minimal vegetative growth that makes bait more
desirable to ground squirrels.
As soon as green vegetation becomes available, bait is less
accepted. To achieve successful control in early spring, apply bait when the
entire ground squirrel population is active. If part of the population is still
hibernating, baiting is not effective. Since females emerge one to two weeks
after males, do not start baiting at the first sign of activity. Baiting also is
not effective late in the gestation period or shortly after the young are born
because females are rarely above ground then. Check the activity level of the
population by trapping or shooting 10 or more animals and checking the ratio of
males to females. A 1-to-1 ratio usually means that females are active and
baiting is appropriate.
Baiting in mid-summer is common in Colorado. Bait after green
vegetation is dry and dormant (sometime in June or July) but before squirrels
disappear into their burrows to hibernate in late July to early August. Bait
acceptance is high in June and July because Wyoming ground squirrels are eating
to build fat reserves for winter. In a very dry spring, control can continue
from April until July because of the scarcity of green vegetation.
Prebaiting with untreated, steam-rolled oats, barley or cracked
corn (depending on bait used) two to three days before baiting improves bait
acceptance. On rangelands, apply prebait and bait by hand in a 6-inch bait spot
near each active burrow. Place no more than 1 teaspoon (4 grams) of bait per
spot. Do not place bait in the burrows because squirrels forage above ground and
are wary of any food found in the burrow. Apply bait only after all or most of
the prebait is eaten, and only in areas where prebait is consumed.
In non-crop areas, apply prebait and bait by hand near each
active burrow or runway. Place bait (no more than 1 teaspoon per burrow) on the
grass and allow it to fall to the ground. Do not put treated
bait in piles.
Apply poison bait only once per year. Surviving squirrels from
the first treatment sometimes become ill after eating bait. Consequently, these
animals will become bait shy and further treatments are unsuccessful.
Use of poison baits according to label directions usually
results in an 80 to 90 percent reduction in Wyoming ground squirrel numbers.
Poor results after baiting usually are due to improperly placed bait, failure to
prebait, presence of green vegetation, or inactivity of a portion of the ground
squirrel population.
To use aluminum phosphide, insert one to four tablets (usually
one) as far back into the burrow as possible. Then insert a wadded newspaper and
plug the opening to the burrow with moist soil or a plug of sod placed
grass-side down to form an airtight seal. The wadded newspaper prevents the
fumigant from being covered and may delay ground squirrels from digging out
before the tablets activate. Aluminum phosphide appears to provide the best
control when soil temperatures are above 60 degrees F.
To use the gas cartridge, punch at least five or six holes in
one end with a nail or ice pick. Insert the sharp point part way and rotate it
to loosen the contents so the cartridge will burn more rapidly. Insert and light
the fuse. Once the fuse is burning well, gently slide the cartridge as far back
into the burrow opening as possible. Immediately plug the opening with moist
soil or a piece of sod placed grass-side down to form an airtight seal. Do not
cover or smother the cartridge. As a rule, gas cartridges do not give
satisfactory control if the soil is dry.
The hydrogen phosphide gas produced by aluminum phosphide
tablets is toxic to all forms of animal life. Exposure through inhalation
produces symptoms such as a pressing sensation in the chest, dizziness, nausea,
vomiting and a rapid onset of stupor. Expose affected people to fresh air and
provide immediate medical attention.
After Wyoming ground squirrels have been exterminated,
reinvasion may be slowed by deep ripping with a tractor and ripping blade. After
successful control of California and Belding ground squirrels, 18-inch-deep
ripping of individual burrows or the entire area significantly reduced
recolonization. Ripping did not reduce ground squirrel numbers on sites where
control was unsuccessful. Weigh negative aspects of ripping, such as cost,
against the potential benefits of slower recolonization and reduced frequency of
rodenticide use.
Havahart Live Trap
Giant destroyer ( Gas Bomb ).
TOP
Raccoon
The Common Raccoon is a mammal native
to the Americas. Its name derives from the Algonquian word aroughcoune, "he who
scratches with his hands". Raccoons are intelligent omnivores with a reputation
for slyness and mischief.
A raccoon (also spelled racoon) is a nocturnal
mammal in the genus Procyon of the Procyonidae family. Raccoons are unusual for
their thumbs, which (though not opposable) enable them to open many closed
containers (such as garbage cans) and doors. They are intelligent omnivores with
a reputation for being clever and mischievous. Raccoons range from 50 to 100 cm
in length (including the tail) and weigh between 4.5 and 16 kg. The raccoon's
tail ranges from 20 to 40 cm in length. Male raccoons are generally larger than
females.
The raccoon is found throughout the United States, with the
exception of the higher elevations of mountainous regions and some areas of the
arid Southwest. Raccoons are more common in the wooded eastern portions of the
United States than in the more arid western plains.
Raccoons prefer
hardwood forest areas near water. Although commonly found in association with
water and trees, raccoons occur in many areas of the western United States
around farmsteads and livestock watering areas, far from naturally occurring
bodies of permanent water. Raccoons den in hollow trees, ground burrows, brush
piles, muskrat houses, barns and abandoned buildings, dense clumps of cattail,
haystacks, or rock crevices.
Raccoons are omnivorous, eating both plant
and animal foods. Plant foods include all types of fruits, berries, nuts,
acorns, corn, and other types of grain. Animal foods are crayfish, clams, fish,
frogs, snails, insects, turtles and their eggs, mice, rabbits, muskrats, and the
eggs and young of ground-nesting birds and waterfowl. Contrary to popular myth,
raccoons do not always wash their food before eating, although they frequently
play with their food in water.
Raccoons breed mainly in February or
March, but matings may occur from December through June, depending on latitude.
The gestation period is about 63 days. Most litters are born in April or May but
some late-breeding females may not give birth until June, July, or August. Only
1 litter of young is raised per year. Average litter size is 3 to 5. The young
first open their eyes at about 3 weeks of age. Young raccoons are weaned
sometime between 2 and 4 months of age.
Raccoons are nocturnal. Adult
males occupy areas of about 3 to 20 square miles (8 to 52 km2), compared to
about 1 to 6 square miles (3 to 16 km2) for females. Adult males tend to be
territorial and their ranges overlap very little. Raccoons do not truly
hibernate, but they do “hole up” in dens and become inactive during severe
winter weather. In the southern United States they may be inactive for only a
day or two at a time, whereas in the north this period of inactivity may extend
for weeks or months. In northern areas, raccoons may lose up to half their fall
body weight during winter as they utilize stored body fat.
Raccoon
populations consist of a high proportion of young animals, with one-half to
three-fourths of fall populations normally composed of animals less than 1 year
in age. Raccoons may live as long as 12 years in the wild, but such animals are
extremely rare.
Usually less than half of the females will breed the year
after their birth, whereas most adult females normally breed every year. Family
groups of raccoons usually remain together for the first year and the young will
often den for the winter with the adult female. The family gradually separates
during the following spring and the young become independent.
Raccoons
can carry Baylisascaris roundworm, canine distemper, parvovirus and rabies. Of
the 6,844 documented rabies cases reported in the United States in 2004, 37.5%
were in raccoons (Krebs et al. 2005, pp. 1912-1925). Seeing a raccoon during the
day is an indicator, though not absolute, that the animal is ill. Rabies may be
entirely without symptoms in the raccoon.
Any animal with suspected rabies should not be approached and if
it requires killing the local health department should be notified to obtain
instructions on means of disposal. Blood, feces and other bodily fluids may
carry the rabies virus. Many communities have animal control officers who can
deal with rabid animals.
Rabies is so prevalent in some populations of wild raccoons that
several states and the US federal government, as well at authorities in Canada
have developed programs of oral vaccination to try to reduce the spread of this
lethal disease.
Raccoons occasionally kill poultry and leave distinctive
signs. The heads of adult birds are usually bitten off and left some distance
from the body. The crop and breast may be torn and chewed, the entrails
sometimes eaten, and bits of flesh left near water. Young poultry in pens or
cages may be killed or injured by raccoons reaching through the wire and
attempting to pull the birds back through the mesh. Legs or feet of the young
birds may be missing. Eggs may be removed completely from nests or eaten on the
spot with only the heavily cracked shell remaining. The lines of fracture will
normally be along the long axis of the egg, and the nest materials are often
disturbed. Raccoons can also destroy bird nests in artificial nesting structures
such as bluebird and wood duck nest boxes.
Raccoons can cause
considerable damage to garden or truck crops, particularly sweet corn. Raccoon
damage to sweet corn is characterized by many partially eaten ears with the
husks pulled back. Stalks may also be broken as raccoons climb to get at the
ears. Raccoons damage watermelons by digging a small hole in the melon and then
raking out the contents with a front paw.
Raccoons cause damage or
nuisance problems around houses and outbuildings when they seek to gain entrance
to attics or chimneys or when they raid garbage in search of food. In many urban
or suburban areas, raccoons are learning that uncapped chimneys make very
adequate substitutes for more traditional hollow trees for use as denning sites,
particularly in spring. In extreme cases, raccoons may tear off shingles or
facia boards in order to gain access to an attic or wall space.
Raccoons
also can be a considerable nuisance when they roll up freshly laid sod in search
of earthworms and grubs. They may return repeatedly and roll up extensive areas
of sod on successive nights. This behavior is particularly common in mid- to
late summer as young raccoons are learning to forage for themselves, and during
periods of dry weather when other food sources may be less available.
The
incidence of reported rabies in raccoons and other wildlife has increased
dramatically over the past 30 years. Raccoons have recently been identified as
the major wildlife host of rabies in the United States, primarily due to
increased prevalence in the eastern United States.
Raccoons are protected
furbearers in most states, with seasons established for running, hunting, or
trapping. Most states, however, have provisions for landowners to control
furbearers that are damaging their property. Check with your state wildlife
agency before using any lethal controls.
To control Raccoon remove
obvious sources of food or shelter around the premises; usually not practical as
a sole method of controlling damage. Cage traps, body-gripping, and foothold
traps are very effective, especially in conjunction with exclusion and/or
habitat modification. shooting can be very effective, particularly if trained
hounds are used to tree the raccoons. Local regulations may apply.
Havahart raccoon trap
TOP
Woodchucks
Woodchucks are found over east
central Alaska and across southern Canada to the Pacific coastal provinces,
extending south to northern Idaho. They are also distributed in the eastern
United States (south to central Alabama and Arkansas)and westward to the edge of
the plains.
As a result of deforestation and
maintenance of the land of cultivated fields and pastures, the woodchuck has
thrived and multiplied. Typical woodchuck habitat includes rolling farmland
interspersed with grassy pastures, small woodlots, and brushy fencelines.
Woodchucks especially prefer forest edges and openings though they are never far
from cover, and they are partial to loam and sandy loam soils for burrowing.
They have been found in a variety of forest types, including spruce and jack
pine and cutover hardwoods.
The woodchuck is the largest sciurid in its geographic range. It
has a heavy, chunky body (18 -26 in) set atop relatively short but powerful legs
well adapted for digging. Males are slightly larger than females. The
dark-colored, bushy tail is about one-fourth as long as the total body length,
much shorter in comparison to other squirrels. Woodchuck skulls are broad and
flat. Strongly developed supraorbital processes project at right angles from the
frontals with the tips projecting slightly forward.The dense, woolly underfur of the back and sides of the
woodchuck is somewhat obscured by longer, less dense guard hair. These guard
hairs are banded with alternating dark and light coloring (bands usually
yellowish to reddish brown, hairs tipped with white), giving this mammal a
frosted appearance. The underfur of the woodchuck is gray with yellow tips, much
paler from the dorsal area. Ears are small, low and rounded atop a black-colored
head with small black eyes.
The woodchuck also possesses three nipple-like anal glands,
which secrete a musky odor.
Breeding takes place in
early spring. Female woodchucks are monoestrus, mating soon after they emerge
from hibernation in April. Females bear a single litter of one to nine (the
average litter size contains three to five young) after a gestation period of 31
or 32 days. The young are born in May and at birth are naked, pink, wrinkled,
and blind and helpless. Young weigh 26 to 27g and measure about 4 1/4 in. in
length. At one week, their skin becomes pigmented. Black body hair emerges
during the second week. At three weeks, the young are capable of crawling and by
the fourth week, they can open their eyes. At five weeks, the young woodchucks
are fully active. The female parent is reported to stand while she nurses her
litter. She has four pairs of teats. Woodchuck offspring (both male and female)
are weaned after a month and a half and are usually forced to disperse in their
first summer of life, when they are about six weeks old. Offspring usually do
not become sexually mature until their second spring.
Woodchucks can live up to six years in the wild, and ten years
in captivity.
Woodchucks are the most solitary
marmots although several individuals may share a single den. Woodchucks are
usually highly agonistic. Though observed mostly on the ground, woodchucks have
been seen climbing trees to reach food and swimming with only their head and
nose above water. Woodchucks are considered diurnal in their aboveground
activities, although they have been observed feeding in dim light or even at
night, especially when food is scarce. In the spring and autumn, activity peaks
near midday and late in the day. In the summer, the animal appears more active
in the morning and afternoon, preferring clear and sunny skies for maximum
activity. When not feeding, woodchucks sun, scratch, and preen themselves
outside their den while watching for potential enemies. Woodchucks are very
vocal mammals, hence the name "whistle-pig." When alarmed, a woodchuck gives a
loud, shrill whistle. Teeth grinding and chattering are common when woodchucks
are cornered. Woodchucks have also been heard to bark, squeal, and whistle when
fighting with other woodchucks. When in danger, woodchucks retreat into nearby
dens instead of running (when in motion, they usually walk though they can run
at a loping gallop of about ten miles an hour). Predators include red foxes and
humans; many other predators, such as the cougar, wolf, bobcat, or coyote have
been extirpated or have experienced great reductions in their numbers in most
areas.
Dens are situated in well-drained locations. With strong,
clawed, forelimbs and large teeth, woodchucks can easily construct burrows with
as many as five entrances. A plunge hole is often near the major den entrance
and may have a vertical drop of as much as 2 ft to a main tunnel. These dens are
also very long, up to 45 ft of tunnels, extending as far underground as 5 ft.
Dens in open areas are used in the summer, and those under stumps, at the edge
of rock ledges, and near other protection are generally occupied during the
winter hibernation. Dens are always kept clean and well padded. Occupied dens
can be recognized by a pile of fresh earth at the entrance. Nesting chambers are
about fifteen inches in diameter and are usually sparsely lined with dry
leaves.
Woodchucks are true hibernators, relying soley on body fat for
winter survival. Hibernation takes place in a side chamber along one of the
underground corridors of the burrow system. This prolonged topor reduces various
metabolic processes- heartbeat slows (from more than 100 per minute to as few as
15), body temperature drops from about 35 degrees C to 8 degrees C, and
respiration also decreases. While hibernating, the woodchuck rolls itself into a
ball and tucks its head between its hind legs. Hibernation generally begins in
October and ends in March or April (not on February 2). Hibernating chambers are
thought to be located under the roots of trees. Woodchucks somehow seem to know
when to wake up, controlled by a circannual clock, but actual emergence depends
on the daily temperature.
Soon after leaving hibernation, sexually mature woodchucks begin
the reproductive process. Males tend to venture above ground first and fight
vigorously with each other. Woodchucks are not monogamous and males do not take
part in raising the offspring. There is some evidence that woodchucks associate
in groups which are dominated by a single adult male, discouraging other males
from mating with his females.
Woodchucks are
essentially herbivores, rarely eating insects, snails, and birds' eggs. They are
primarily grazers, eating the vegetative parts of plants unlike other scuirids,
which feed on reproductive parts such as seeds, nuts, and flowers. Woodchucks
often sit on their haunches and pull plants over with their forepaws. In early
spring, when green vegetation is sparse, woodchucks may eat the bark, buds, and
twigs of plants such as dogwood, sumac, black cherry, and other fruit trees.
Favorite foods include grasses and forbs, clover, leaves of sassafras and other
trees, and numerous herbs. Woodchucks are also partial to farm crops especially
alfalfa, planted clover, corn, oats, and assorted fruits and vegetables. Daily
food consumption can be as much as 0.67kg.
Woodchucks
influence the how many and what kinds of plants there are in their communities
by eating them. Woodchucks are also important and abundant food sources for many
large predators in their communities.
Woodchucks are
serious agricultural pests. Not only do they travel considerable distances to
raid gardens, but their immense burrows damage farm machinery and destroy
building foundations. Horses have been known to break their legs when stumbling
into these burrows.
Woodchucks are favorite targets
for sport hunting, which helps control their numbers. Their reproductive
potential seems sufficient enough to prevent local extermination.
The burrowing activities of woodchucks often provide homes for
many kinds of wildlife. Also, vegetation growth around burrows is enhanced by
fertilization from buried fecal materials.
As a result of deforestation and maintenance of the land of
cultivated fields and pastures, the woodchuck has thrived and multiplied.
Woodchucks are favorite targets for sport hunting, which helps control their
numbers. Their ability to reproduce quickly is sufficient to prevent local
extermination.
Giant
Destroyer ( gas bomb )
Havahart
Live Trap.
TOP
Bats
Bats are mammals in the
order Chiroptera. Their most distinguishing feature is that their forelimbs are
developed as wings, making them the only mammal in the world naturally capable
of flight; other mammals, such as flying squirrels and gliding phalangers, can
glide for limited distances but are not capable of true sustainable flight. The
word Chiroptera can be translated from the Greek words for "hand wing," as the
structure of the open wing is very similar to an outspread human hand, with a
membrane (patagium) between the fingers that also stretches between hand and
body.
There are estimated to be about 1,100 species of
bats worldwide, accounting for about 20% of all mammal species. About 70% of
bats are insectivores. Of the remainder, most feed on fruits and their juices;
three species sustain themselves with blood and some prey on vertebrates. These
bats include the leaf-nosed bats (Phyllostomidae) of central America and South
America, and the related bulldog bats (Noctilionidae) that feed on fish. At
least two known species of bat feed on other bats: the Spectral Bat or American
False Vampire bat and the Ghost Bat of Australia. Despite the cold weather,
there are 6 species of bats in Alaska.
Some of the smaller bat species are important
pollinators of some tropical flowers. Indeed, many tropical plants are now found
to be totally dependent on them, not just for pollination, but for spreading
their seeds by eating the resulting fruits. This role explains environmental
concerns when a bat is introduced in a new setting. Tenerife provides a recent
example with the introduction of the Egyptian fruit bat.
By emitting high-pitched sounds and listening to
the echoes, microbats locate prey and other nearby objects. This is the process
of echolocation, an ability they share with dolphins and whales. Two groups of
moth exploit the bats' senses: tiger moths produce ultrasonic signals to warn
the bats that the moths are chemically-protected (aposematism) (this was once
thought to be a form of "radar jamming", but this theory has been disproved);
the moths Noctuidae have a hearing organ called a tympanum which responds to an
incoming bat signal by causing the moth's flight muscles to twitch erratically,
sending the moth into random evasive maneuvers.
Although the eyes of most microbat species are
small and poorly developed, their sense of vision is typically very good,
especially at long distances, beyond the range of echolocation. Their senses of
smell and hearing are excellent.
The teeth of microbats resemble those of the
insectivorans. They are very sharp in order to bite through the hardened armour
of insects or the skin of fruits.
Thermographic image of a bat using trapped air as
insulation.While other mammals have one-way valves only in their veins to
prevent the blood from flowing backwards, bats also have the same mechanism in
their arteries.
The finger bones of bats are much more flexible
than those of other mammals. One reason is that the cartilage in their fingers
lacks calcium and other minerals nearer the tips, increasing their ability to
bend without splintering. The cross-section of the finger bone is also flattened
instead of circular as is the bone in a human finger, making it even more
flexible. The skin on their wing membranes is a lot more elastic and can stretch
much more than what is usually seen among mammals.
Because their wings are much thinner than those of
birds, bats can maneuver more quickly and more precisely than birds. The surface
of their wings are also equipped with touch-sensitive receptors on small bumps
called Merkel cells, found in most mammals, including humans. But these
sensitive areas are different in bats as each bump has a tiny hair in the
center, making it even more sensitive, and allowing the bat to detect and
collect information about the air flowing over its wings. An additional kind of
receptor cell is found in the wing membrane of species that use their wings to
catch prey. This receptor cell is sensitive to the stretching of the membrane.
The cells are concentrated in areas of the membrane where insects hit the wings
when the bats capture them. Colony of
Mouse-eared Bats, Myotis myotisMother bats usually have only one offspring per
year. A baby bat is referred to as a pup. Pups are usually left in the roost
when they are not nursing. However, a newborn bat can cling to the fur of the
mother and be transported, although they soon grow too large for this. It would
be difficult for an adult bat to carry more than one young, but normally only
one young is born. Bats often form nursery roosts, with many females giving
birth in the same area, be it a cave, a tree hole, or a cavity in a building.
Mother bats are able to find their young in huge colonies of millions of other
pups. Pups have even been seen to feed on other mothers' milk if their mother is
dry. Only the mother cares for the young, and there is no continuous partnership
with male bats.
The ability to fly is congenital, but after birth
the wings are too small to fly. Young microbats become independent at the age of
6 to 8 weeks, megabats not until they are four months old. At the age of two
years bats are sexually mature.
A single bat can live over 20 years, but the bat
population growth is limited by the slow birth rate.
Most microbats are active at night or at
twilight.
The social structure of bats varies, with some
bats leading a solitary life and others living in caves colonized by more than a
million bats.
Insects— About 70 percent of all bats eat insects:
flies, mosquitoes, beetles, and cockroaches. A colony of bats in Texas eats
500,000 pounds (226,796 kilograms) of mosquitoes nightly!
Nectar— Bats that eat nectar are like
hummingbirds, with long snouts and tongues that allow them to lap up nectar as
they hover. Their hair catches pollen and carries it from flower to flower. Many
plant species would not survive without bat pollinators.
Fruit— Fruit-eaters are drawn by the smell of ripe
fruit and are important seed-dispersers. Some seeds will not sprout unless they
have passed through a bat’s digestive system. Bats are a crucial resident of
healthy rain forest habitats. At the San Diego Zoo, the fruit bats are fed
nectar and a variety of juicy fruits, including oranges, pears, grapes, and
watermelon, as well as bananas and a bat pellet (to supplement their nutritional
needs).
Fish, etc.— A few species of bats eat fish, plus
lizards, frogs, birds, rodents, and even other bats! These bats kill their prey
by biting its head. Fishing bats fly over the surface of the water, use
echolocation to find the fish, grab it with their sharp claws, and then move it
into their mouth.
Blood— Only three species of bats, found from
Mexico to South America, eat the blood of mammals or birds, often domestic
animals like cows. These bats make a small, V-shaped cut in the animal’s skin
with a bite, then lick up the blood. They don’t suck blood, like the vampire
legends say! And licking the blood from an animal’s leg is usually more annoying
than dangerous. A chemical in the bat’s saliva keeps the blood from clotting
before it's done eating. This chemical could have medical uses for humans.
Investigations are being done to see if this chemical can help humans who have
blood clots that could cause strokes.
Bats are responsible for pollinating trees,
flowers, and cacti. They spread seeds so plants grow in new areas. Bats
pollinate avocados, bananas, breadfruit, dates, figs, mangoes, and peaches.
These remarkable mammals live together by the millions and each can eat half its
weight in insects a night, so they are great at controlling large numbers of
pests that harm crops and spread disease. Certain microorganisms found in bat
droppings may have important medical uses for humans.
Without active conservation programs, bats face
extinction. Bats have been killed on purpose when people disturbed their caves
or hunted them for food or medicine. Contact a local nature center or park to
find out if there is a bat club in your area, or join Bat Conservation
International. You can start your own club, help protect local caves and other
roosting areas, or build a bat house for your yard or
neighborhood.
The lethal control of bats, even when there
is a proven potential danger to humans, often is subjected to careful scrutiny
and interagency coordination. A survey of federal legislative actions, court
decisions, and agency interpretations concerning bats can be found in Bat
Management in the United States. Some states have laws that specifically
mention bats, either providing or denying protection. Others have legislation
that applies to bats only by interpretation, since bats may be considered
non-game wildlife or indigenous state mammals. Some bats have protection as
either federal or state-listed endangered species, but the same state may not
protect other species of bats. Enforcement and public education must accompany
legislation to accomplish the intended goal of protecting the public and saving
endangered bats. Familiarity with the appropriate federal and state laws should
precede any nuisance management activities.
Pre-management
Considerations Bat Watch for Infestation Confirmation- To confirm that
bats are actually roosting in or on a building, look for bats flying in and out
of a site and/ or for signs of infestation. A bat watch can be conducted by two
people (more may be necessary to observe large or complex sites) posted at
opposite corners of a structure. An evening watch begins about 30 minutes before
dark and a morning watch begins about 1 hour before dawn. Observations should
continue for approximately 1 hour. Such observations can indicate exit/ entry
points and the number of bats. With practice, distinguishing some bat species
may also be possible. For example, compared to the big brown bat, the little
brown bat is noticeably smaller in size, and its flight has more rapid wing
beats, and more rapid turning and darting.
It may be necessary to watch
for more than one night to compensate for weather conditions, bats’ sensitivity
to observers, noisy or inexperienced observers, and improper use of light.
Observations can be enhanced with a standard flashlight, but be certain to keep
the bright part of the beam as far as possible away from the exit hole being
observed. Bright light will increase bats’ reluctance to exit and may result in
an incomplete exit of the colony. A valuable observation aid is a powerful,
rechargeable flashlight equipped with a plastic, red pop-off filter (similar to
the Kodak Wratten 89B). Also, an electric headlamp, supplied with rechargeable
batteries and fitted to a climbing or spelunking helmet, allows hands-off
illumination outdoors as well as indoors when exploring roost locations. Bats
are sensitive to light intensity and can visually discriminate shapes and
patterns in extremely low light situations. They can only see in black and
white; hence, the low-contrast illumination and soft shadows produced by red
light has little effect on bats.
Locating the Roost(s)- It is not
always possible or convenient to conduct a bat watch. Thus, a detailed
inspection inside the building for bats or bat sign may be necessary to find
specific roosts. Daytime is best, especially during the warmer part of the day.
Bats roost in the most varied kinds of buildings and in every part from cellar
to attic. Some types of buildings appear preferable (older houses, churches,
barns, proximity to water) as do certain roost locations therein, especially
areas with little disturbance, low illumination, little air circulation, and
high temperatures. Often it is easy to locate bats, especially in warm weather
in attics or lofts, where they may hang in clusters or side-by-side from the
sloping roof lath, beams, and so forth. However, bats have the ability to find
crevices and cavities, and if disturbed may rapidly disappear into the angles
between converging beams, behind such beams or wallboards, into mortise holes on
the underside of beams, and into the multilayered wall and roof fabrications. If
bats cannot be openly observed, usually there are various interior and exterior
signs of their presence. Often there are multiple roost sites within or on a
single building.
Problem Assessment- Once it has been confirmed that
bats are present, one must determine if there is damage, if there is a health
risk, and if some intervention is warranted. There are circumstances in which
“no action” is the correct action because of the beneficial role of bats. In
cases where there is risk of contact, damage from excreta accumulations, stains,
and so on, intervention may be necessary.
Timing- With the exception
of disease treatment and removal of the occasional bat intruder, timing becomes
an important planning consideration. Management procedures must not complicate
an already existing problem and should emphasize bat conservation. Therefore,
all interventions should be initiated before the young are born or after they
are weaned and able to fly. Thus, the annual opportunity extends from about
mid-August to mid-May for much of North America. Treatments might otherwise
result in the unnecessary death of animals (especially young unable to fly)
trapped inside, offensive odors, and attraction of arthropod
scavengers.
Removal of Occasional Bat Intruders A bat that has
blundered into the living quarters of a house will usually find its way out by
detecting air movement. When no bite or contact with people or pets has
occurred, the simplest solution for “removing” the bat is to try to confine it
to one room, then open windows and doors leading outdoors and allow it to
escape. If the bat is present at night, the lights should be dimmed to allow the
animal to find open doors and windows; some light is necessary if an observer is
to insure that the bat finds its way out. If bright lights are kept on, the bat
may become confused and may seek refuge behind shelving, curtains, hanging
pictures, or under furniture.
Healthy bats normally will not attack
people even when chased. Chasing a flying bat with a folded newspaper, tennis
racket, or stick will cause the bat to take evasive action, and a bat’s flight
reversal to avoid a wall is often misinterpreted as an attack. These flailings,
often futile, will cause a bat to seek safety wherever possible, making escape
more difficult for the bat and more frustrating for the human.
If a bite
or physical contact occurs, capture the bat without damaging its head and
immediately contact a physician (see previous section regarding rabies
treatment). Management of problems involving bat colonies require more
complicated procedures and a greater time commitment.
NOTE – The Centers for Disease Control recommends that if
there has been human or pet contact, or if it is unknown if there was contact,
the bat should be destroyed (do not crush the head) and the public health
department consulted. The Centers for Disease Control also recommends that if
the bat was in a room with a sleeping person then it should be captured,
destroyed without crushing the head, and submitted for testing. Consult your
physician for more information.
Bat A Way Repellents
Havahart live trap.
Sanitation and cleanup. Artificial roosts.
When no bite or contact has occurred, help the bat escape
(otherwise submit it for rabies testing).
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Rabbits
Few animals are as content to
sit unmoving for as long as rabbits are. As prey
animals, rabbits go to extremes not to advertise themselves as available to be
eaten—but that isn't to say they don't let their guard down once in a while. If
lucky, the patient observer may see them in the early morning or evening hours
in spirited and spontaneous chases of other rabbits, or energetically hopping
and leaping about—revealing this animal's playful nature. While rabbits lead
lives full of concern and fear, they sometimes display a joie de vivre
that we can envy.
Rabbits are commonly misunderstood to
be rodents, but they actually belong to their own order and are properly called
lagomorphs. Lagomorphs are found in both the Old and New Worlds, with the New
World species distinguished between "true" rabbits (genus Sylvilagus)
and hares and jackrabbits (genus Lepus). While many people mistakenly
believe that wild rabbits and domesticated pet rabbits are the same species, the
truth is that the domesticated rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus) belongs
to another genus entirely and is only distantly related to his wild
brethren.
Of the wild species in the United States, there are 14 species
of true rabbits, of which the eastern cottontail (Sylvilagus
floridanus) is the most widely distributed and familiar. Eastern
cottontails have been introduced to the Pacific Northwest and are widespread
enough throughout the South and Midwest to make the descriptor "eastern"
misleading. Cottontails vary in color from gray to brown and have large hind
feet and ears—which also function as body heat regulators, since rabbits don't
pant or sweat—and short fluffy tails. They vary in size, but on the whole are
rather small animals, averaging about a foot long and weighing just two to three
pounds. Rabbits are crepuscular, meaning they're most active at dusk
and dawn.
Cottontails are generally found in brushy hedgerows and the
edges of wooded areas with dense cover, but they also do well in suburban and
urban areas where lawns, gardens, and various shrubs meet their habitat
requirements. Rabbits feed on leafy plants during the growing season and the
buds and bark of woody plants in the winter. Besides the plants essential to
their diet, rabbits also need safe resting places and cover in which to escape
from predators.
Famous for their breeding abilities, cottontails breed from
February through September in the north. Gestation is about 28 days. Three to
four litters of four or five young ("bunnies") are born each year. Young are
born helpless in a shallow depression lined with grass and mother's fur, but
they grow rapidly and are weaned when less than half the size of the
adult.
They may live up to two years in the wild, but where predators
are numerous they seldom survive more than one year. However, it is important to
recognize the role that predation plays in keeping rabbit populations in
balance. Hawks and owls are important avian predators, and foxes, raccoons,
skunks, and opossums are mammals that prey on rabbits.
Rabbits have a remarkable ability to circumvent fences and raid
vegetable gardens. One can of course shoot, trap, or gas them; but by then a
good deal of damage has been done, and more may occur before the offending
rabbit or rabbits are dispatched.
One can also use repellents such as Rid-a-Critter, but if your
vegetables provide a good potential food source, the rabbits may eventually get
accustomed to the repellant and ignore it.
For the vegetable gardener, the best answer to the rabbit
problem is electric fence.This powerful yet economical device puts a low barrier
fence just behind two pet-safe, child-safe charged wires–so that a rabbit or
other small animal seeking to go over or under the barrier will come into good
contact with the charged wires, get zapped, and go home. Since animals are
terrified by electricity much more than by repellants, this answer is 100%
effective all of the time–and it works not only against rabbits but also against
raccoons, woodchucks, ground squirrels, skunks, opossums, and virtually all
small animals.
People don’t normally want to put fences, even low ones, around
flower gardens or ground cover plantings vulnerable to rabbits, so in such
cases electric fence is usually not an option. As noted above, in addition to
the traditional trapping and bombing options, one can also scatter Rid-a-Critter
granules around vulnerable areas (the granules will last up to 2 months
outdoors).
Electric Fence
Havahart Traps
Rid-a-Critter Repellents
Giant Destroyer ( gas bomb )
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Pigeon
Height/Weight: 12”-15”/10oz-16oz Life Span: 3-4 years
in the wild up to 16 captivity Flight Speed: 28 to 82 mph
" Food: Widely varied, grains, seeds, corn human food scraps
Habitat: Pigeons are highly dependent on humans to provide them with food
and sites for roosting, loafing, and nesting. They are commonly found around
farm yards, grain elevators, feed mills, parks, city buildings, bridges, and
other structures.
Pigeons and doves are some 300 species of near passerine birds in the
order Columbiformes. In general parlance the terms "dove" and "pigeon" are used
somewhat interchangeably. In ornithological practice there is a tendency for
"dove" to be used for smaller species and "pigeon" for larger ones, but this is
in no way consistently applied, and historically the common names for these
birds involve much variation between "dove" and "pigeon". The species commonly
referred to just as the "pigeon" is the feral Rock Pigeon, common in many
cities.
The feral pigeon is the number one urban pest bird. Large
numbers exist in every city across the country. Not a native bird, feral pigeons
are descendants of domestic homing pigeons brought over from Europe and released
here in the 1600s. They were domesticated from the wild rock doves from the sea
cliffs of Europe by the Romans over two thousand years ago. Several traits have
allowed them to dominate the urban landscape. Because of their history, pigeons
are not afraid of people; they roost and nest readily in man made structures and
they have a diverse diet. These birds have a dark bluish-gray head, neck, and
chest with glossy yellowish, greenish, and reddish-purple iridescence along its
neck and wing feathers. There are two narrow black wing bands and a broad black
terminal tail band. The females tend to show less iridescence than the males.
The bill is dark grayish-pink.
Feral pigeons are responsible for untold
millions of dollars of damage each year in urban areas. The uric acid in their
feces is highly corrosive. Also, debris from roosting flocks can build up,
backing up gutters and drains thus causing damage to roofs and other structures.
Extensive damage to air conditioning units and other roof top machinery is
commonplace. Pigeon droppings deface and accelerate the deterioration of
buildings and increase the cost of maintenance. Pigeon manure deposited on park
benches, statues, cars, and unwary pedestrians is aesthetically displeasing.
Around grain handling facilities, pigeons consume and contaminate large
quantities of food destined for human or livestock consumption. Besides physical
damage, the bacteria, fungal agents and ectoparasites found in pigeon droppings
sometimes represent a health risk. Large amounts of droppings may kill
vegetation and produce an objectionable odor. Pigeons may carry and spread
diseases to people and livestock through their droppings. They are known to
carry or transmit pigeon ornithosis, encephalitis, Newcastle disease,
cryptococcosis, toxoplasmosis, salmonella food poisoning, and several other
diseases. Additionally, under the right conditions pigeon manure may harbor
airborne spores of the causal agent of histoplasmosis, a systemic fungus disease
that can infect humans. The ectoparasites of pigeons include various species of
fleas, lice, mites, ticks, and other biting insects, some of which readily bite
people. Some insects that inhabit the nests of pigeons are also fabric pests
and/or pantry pests. The northern fowl mite found on pigeons is an important
poultry pest. Pigeons located around airports can also be a threat to human
safety because of potential bird-aircraft collisions, and are considered a
medium priority hazard to jet aircraft by the US Air Force.
Pigeons and doves are stout-bodied birds with short necks and
short slender bills with a fleshy cere.
The usually flimsy nests are made of sticks, and the two white
eggs are incubated by both sexes. Doves feed on seeds, fruit and other soft
plantstuff. Unlike most other birds (but see flamingo), the doves and pigeons
produce "crop milk", which is secreted by a sloughing of fluid-filled cells from
the lining of the crop. Both sexes produce this highly nutritious substance to
feed to the young.
This family occurs worldwide, but the greatest variety is in the
Indomalaya and Australasia ecozones. The young doves and pigeons are called
"squabs".
Pigeons are not protected by Fed. Government. There are a wide
variety of solutions available for handling a pigeon infestation. The best
solution for pigeon problems, is complete exclusion with BirdNet. Many ledge
problems can be solved by using products such as BirdGel, or Bird Needle Spikes.
When bird pressure is heavy in an area, exclusion work must be accompanied by
flock dispersal methods like trapping or use of moving predator deterrents like
the visual repellent. Flock dispersal alone is not a long term solution
especially in medium-heavy pressure situations like when there are
food/water/shelter sources at the site. One vital component to pigeon removal is
to modify their habitat by eliminating food supply. Discourage people from
feeding pigeons in public areas. Clean up spilled grain around elevators, feed
mills, and railcar clean-out areas. Eliminate standing water.
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Raven
Height/Weight:
16” - 32” / 24 - 57 oz.
Life
Span:
2-13 years in wild; > 44 in captivity
Flight Speed:
25-32
mph
Food:
Scavenger, eats almost anything: carrion, insects, snakes, human
food scraps, eggs, & garbage
Habitat:
Treeless tundra, seacoasts, open
riverbanks, rocky cliffs, mountain forests, plains, deserts, and scrubby
woodlands, urban areas
Raven is the common name given to several large black birds
of the genus Corvus. Other birds in the same genus are the smaller crows,
jackdaws, and rooks.Common ravens are one of the most widespread, naturally
occurring birds worldwide. The raven is a large, entirely black bird with a
wedge-shaped tail. They have a well-developed ruff of feathers on the throat,
which are called 'hackles' and are used often social communication. These are
the largest passerines.
Ravens are frequently a big agricultural pest bird due to their
fondness for corn and other farm crops and have been accused of killing or
maiming small livestock, but they are a minor urban pest compared to the pigeon,
starling or house sparrow. They may also negatively affect conservation efforts
aimed at desert tortoises, sandhill cranes, and California condors. These birds
can overwhelm trees, creating a lot of noise and harassing people and animals in
the vicinity which can be a nuisance to the suburban resident. Furthermore, like
any pest bird, dropping buildup can lead to structural damage from the uric acid
while also posing a health risk due to the harborage of disease.
Much
Raven behavior is related to mating and reproduction. Juveniles begin to court
at a very early age, but may not bond for another 2-3 years. Aerial acrobatics
and displays of intelligence and ability to provide food are key behaviors of
courting Ravens. Once paired, Ravens tend to nest together for life, usually in
the same location. The pair will build a nest on a cliff ledge or a tall tree
(or a building ledge in cities).
Breeding pairs must have a territory of their own before they
begin nest-building and reproduction, and the territory and its food resources
will be defended against others. The nest is made of large sticks and twigs
lined with a softer material, such as deer fur. The female will lay from three
to seven pale bluish-green, brown-blotched eggs. Both parents keep the eggs
warm, and take turns feeding the chicks. As with many birds, pairing does not
necessarily mandate sexual monogamy, and raven habits show fluidity in this
regard.
Popular beliefs about Ravens include the notion that they are
attracted to shiny objects, but research indicates that juveniles are deeply
curious about all new things, and that Ravens retain an attraction to bright,
round objects based on their similarity to bird eggs. Mature Ravens lose their
intense interest in the unusual, and become highly neophobic. Ravens usually
live ten to fifteen years in the wild, or twice that in captivity. In
much of Europe and North America, raven is used as a synonym for the widespread
Common Raven, and much of the literature and culture surrounding ravens refers
to that species.
Ravens have impressed their biologist observers with their
apparent intelligence and insight. Experiments have shown that members of the
crow family are capable of using tools; an experiment, where some desirable item
lay on the bottom of a bottle, showed that some of these birds were able to form
a hook to reach the item. Like other corvids, Ravens can copy sounds from their
environment, including human speech. They have a wide range of vocalizations,
which remain the object of interest to ornithologists.
The Common Raven is the official bird of the Yukon and of the
city of Yellowknife, Northwest Territories.
Raven species include:
Common Raven (C. corax) Australian Raven (C. coronoides)
Forest Raven (C. tasmanicus) Little Raven (C. mellori) Thick-billed
Raven (C. crassirostris) White-necked Raven (C. albicollis) Brown-necked
Raven (C. ruficollis) Chihuahuan Raven (C. cryptoleucos)
It is possible to drive away large flocks of Ravens and other
crows with audio-visual scare devices To maximize effectiveness, hang visual
products in trees before beginning an aural campaign. They can be kept off
ledges using Bird Spikes or Bird-Shield biodegradable food spray. BirdNet
netting will exclude ravens completely from most areas.
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Canadian
Geese
Height/Weight: 22" to 48"; 3-4 lbs. to 24lbs.. Life
Span: Generally 10-25 years; some instances 40+ Flight Speed: 20-55
mph Food: Graze on marsh grass, pond weeds, new grain and corn
Habitat: Grassy fields near water Canadian
Geese have a black neck, bill and head with occasional white patches and
a white strap under the chin. The body is usually brownish gray although colors
vary in some of the subspecies. In some of these birds, the body is dark brown
where as in some of the larger subspecies, the body is a light gray tone.
Underneath, the colors are much lighter and almost white on the tail. During
flight, the tail shows a white semi-circle just above the black tail. The
black head and neck with white "chinstrap" distinguish this goose from all
except the Barnacle Goose, but the latter has a black breast, and grey, rather
than brownish, body plumage. There are seven subspecies of this bird, of varying
sizes and plumage details, but all are recognizable as Canada Geese. Some are
hard to distinguish from the Cackling Goose (Branta hutchinsii), with which the
Canada Goose was long assumed to form one species; the name Lesser Canada Goose
is, confusingly, often applied to B. hutchinsii.
This species is 90-100 cm long with a 160-175 cm wing span.
Males weigh 3.5–6.5 kg, (8–14 pounds), and can be very aggressive in defending
territory. The female looks virtually identical but is slightly lighter at 3–5.5
kg (7–12 pounds), and has a different honk. Waterfowl cause significant
losses to agricultural and aqua cultural crops, damage golf courses, cemeteries,
lawns, and gardens, and contaminate reservoirs. Their activities can cause real
economic hardship, aggravate nuisance situations, or create human health
hazards. Goose problems in urban and suburban areas are primarily caused by
giant Canada geese, which are probably the most adaptable of all waterfowl. If
left undisturbed, these geese will readily establish nesting territories on
ponds in residential yards, golf courses, condominium complexes, city parks, or
on farms. Most people will readily welcome a pair of geese on a pond. They can
soon turn from pet to pest, however. A pair of geese can, in 5 to 7 years,
easily become 50 to 100 birds that are fouling ponds and surrounding yards and
damaging landscaping, gardens, and golf courses. Defense of nests or young by
geese and swans can result in injuries to people who come too close. A larger
threat is air safety. Geese are one of the main birds involved in airline bird
strikes worldwide.
paradeThese birds feed mainly on plant material. When feeding in
water, they submerge their heads and necks to reach aquatic plants, sometimes
tipping forward like a dabbling duck. Flocks of these birds often feed on
leftover cultivated grains in fields, especially during migration or in
winter.
During the second year of their lives, Canada Geese find
themselves a mate. Most couples stay together all of their lives. If one is
killed, the other may find a new mate. The female lays 4-8 eggs and both parents
protect the nest while the eggs incubate, but the female spends more time at the
nest than the male. During that time, they lose their flight feathers, so that
they cannot fly until after their eggs hatch. This period lasts for 25-28
days.
Adult geese are often seen leading their goslings in a line with
one parent at the front, and the other at the back of the "parade". While
protecting their young, parents often violently chase away nearby creatures,
from small blackbirds to other geese, to humans that approach. However, geese
may form groups of a number of goslings and a few adults, called crèches. The
young do not leave their parents until after the spring migration, when they
return to their birthplace.
This well-known species is native to North America. It breeds in
Canada and the northern United States in a variety of habitats. However, the
nest is usually located in an elevated area near water, sometimes on a beaver
lodge. The eggs are laid in a shallow depression lined with plant material and
down. The Great Lakes region maintains a very large population of Canada
Geese.
Like most geese, it is naturally migratory, the wintering range
being most of the US. The calls overhead from large groups of Canada Geese
flying in V-shaped formation signal the transitions into spring and autumn. In
some areas, migration routes have changed due to changes in habitat and food
sources. In mild climates, such as the Pacific Northwest, due to a lack of
former predators, some of the population has become non-migratory.
If a goose feels threatened by another creature it will usually
warn the creature by giving off a hissing sound.
By the early 20th century, over-hunting and loss of habitat in
the late 1800s and early 1900s had resulted in a serious decline in the numbers
of this bird in its native range. The Giant Canada Goose subspecies was believed
to be extinct in the 1950s until, in 1962, a small flock was discovered
wintering in Rochester, Minnesota by Harold Hanson of the Illinois Natural
History Survey. With improved game laws and habitat recreation and preservation
programs, their populations have recovered in most of their range, although some
local populations, especially of the subspecies occidentalis, may still be
declining. They have adapted well to urban environments, especially those with
well-trimmed lawns and large ponds, such as golf courses and city
parks.
Non-migratory Canada geese are difficult to remove. Once
established, immediate corrective landscaping and behavioral modification is
imperative: Remove cover shrubbery; use herbicides to eliminate aquatic
vegetation; and reduce fertilizer, especially around pond area, to make grass
less nutritionally attractive. Several visual scare products , audio scare
devices distress calls through several speaker locations in a random pattern to
scare them away. All systems require constant re-enforcement and should be
relocated frequently.
Branta canadensis Canada Goose distribution:
yellow:summer; blue:winter; green:year-roundCanada Geese have reached western Europe
naturally, as has been proved by ringing recoveries. The birds are of at least
the subspecies parvipes, and possibly others. Canada Geese are also found
naturally on the Kamchatka Peninsula in eastern Siberia, eastern China, and
throughout Japan.
Bird Spike 2000
JTeaton 4 the bird
Bat A Way Repellents
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